Tuesday, 29 April 2008
Sorry no more photo's
Lots of love J
The wedding !!!!
This is now being written at the Serena Hotel in Zanzibar (A fabulous place to stay if you ever get the chance!) All the wedding guests have left, the flowers have been dispersed and the bride and groom, today, are on their way to Botswana for their horse riding honeymoon. Its over, its done - it was aa amazing and wonderful time and hopefully I can tell you something about it, and maybe even include a few photos.
The celebrations started on the Saturday when family and friends started to arrive from all over the world (France, UK, Barbados, Canada, Ireland, plus some 7 other countries!). Many had arrived and gone straight off for a safari prior to the event.
On the Tuesday, I was invited to the womens meeting at Honey Badger (we had by this time moved to a hotel which was next to the venue for the wedding). I dragged Brenda along with me (unfortunately my sister – Hilary – was not yet back from Safari) and they showed us what would be happening at the function on the Saturday. Basically the women from my clan should have gathered and brought together all the things which Jenny would need in her married life – these things are then put in a basket and I then present the basket to Jen, with a ‘few chosen words of wisdom’. However, as my clan was somewhat small (and ignorant of this tradition) the local women gathered together the implements needed. They included locally made wooden utensils, spoons, ladles, a wooden swivel stick which is used to stir the meali porridge or ugali. Wooden bowls and trays and mugs made out of coconuts were also included, as well as THE banana leaf mat – which is used as a birthing mat (no pressure there then Jen!) Also presented was a gas lamp. All these things were put into the basket and there was lots of ululating and singing went with it. I was also advised that my ‘words of wisdom’ should include something along the lines of ‘if your husband sleeps with his head facing north, then you must sleep with your head facing north – etc etc’. We were then invited by the women to go across to the bar for a drink, and there was more singing, ululating and laughter – it was amazing.
Meanwhile the young of the group, had all gone off for a night in the town, boys separated from the girls to eat but they all joined up later I think.
Wednesday, was the day of the legal wedding (equivalent to the Registrars Office) parents and siblings only. We walked over to the venue for the wedding to meet up with Jen and Joey at 9ish. They wanted to check that all was going OK. It wasn’t! The table man had promised 14 round tables, he only had 5, the musicians (The Tanzanites from Dar) had decided not to come today but would come Thurs am!! Luckily Monica (Joey’s cousin) then arrived. She is well known in Tz, and she is an event organizer. She had been brought in to organize the Saturday wedding, and to do the flowers for Thursday – so she took over, and J & J left it all in her very capable (and big!) hands.
We then went along to the registrars office – for those who read the blog about the Hindi wedding – it was in the same place. Old colonial building with a filing system which is still in the dark ages. However, all arrived (and on time!!) except Mama Lucy!!!! Don’t know why she didn’t come, something about being too busy.
The service was lovely – the District Commission did it, and she firstly asked them whether they wanted a monogamous, polygamous, or defer the decision till later, marriage. Then she proceeded to talk about how this marriage ceremony is a legal one and only can be broken by death or divorce, and went into great detail about how to get a divorce! Next came the advice, Do Not Kill Each Other – that is bad! Do not send friends to spy on each other, that also is bad. Etc etc. It was a lovely service tho. Sam, Joey’s brother, and I were witnesses and I forgot to take a hanky!!!!! Luckily there were a few available for me to use. Loads of photo’s taken.
We all then went back to Honey Badger for lunch, picking up friends and family on the way. At three, the girls of the wedding party – left to go back to our hotel to be pampered. We then lazed around the pool, and chilled. At 7pm we had planned to have a BBQ at the hotel for all our guests and friends, and it was a lovely evening. However, it did start to rain at 10 ish – and didn’t stop!!
Our room at the hotel was a wonderfully large and spacious one. The hotel only had 11 rooms and used to be a private house. We had the guest room which opened out onto the pool area/garden as well. Loads of space and mirrors, but not much light (fixed that my asking the manager to put some bulbs in!!!)
We are now Thursday morning – wedding day – and it hadn’t stopped raining since 10 pm last night. It was pouring down – good African rain. But undaunted, Donald got dressed relatively early and cleared out of the room, so that we girls could take it over. Hairdresser (eventually!!) came, but made such a mess of Jen’s hair that it had to be washed and done again (by Helen K), meanwhile the power went out, so there was an element of panic about use of hair dryers.
We had planned to leave at 12 – ceremony to start at 12.30. At 11 ish, Sam came over from the venue with the flowers and informed us “don’t hurry, there is a slight delay – wait for the call” So we opened another bottle and tried to keep Jen cool and calm – it had started to stop raining. All guests were gathered at the venue, but it seems that (a) the room decorations were not yet finished and (b) Mama Lucy had not appeared yet!!!!
We eventually get the go ahead and get the dress on and shoes on and head for the cars. Seemly we arrived just after Lucy – who I understand had a fanfare from the Ngombe group (the local Chagga musicians who were supposed to play to guests whilst the photo’s were being taken).
The hotel looked lovely, there was an aisle strewn with red rose petals and I walked down it on my own saying hi to all as I went – there were quite a few empty seats, but think we expected that people would just drip in when they would.
When I got to my place, on the front row, I looked at Lucy and said hi and gave her a kiss and noticed that Peter (Joey’s Dad) wasn’t there. He had been ill and had had to go to hospital on the Tuesday, and Lucy said that he wasn’t well again. So sorry that he missed the ceremony – but – he appeared at the venue just after the ceremony and looked pretty fit to me. Not sure if this was either his way of not being at the ceremony which was not a Catholic one, whether he had been called away by ‘the government’ to do some work, or the other scenario we heard was that Lucy sent him on an important errant. Either way, obviously they did not consider this part of the celebrations too important. But lets carry on ..
Then down the aisle I see the bridesmaids and then Jen & Donald. I sobbed … (so did Donald) It was a really beautiful ceremony. The DC gave an abridged version of her other talk, and there were a few readings, and Jen and Joey exchanged vows. They also managed to get Joey to break the glass (a la Jewish tradition) which was lovely. They then walked up the aisle husband and wife!
We then did the usual photos etc and had the wedding breakfast, speeches and dancing. The rain DID stop just as we arrived at the venue, and for the photos too – so that was just fabulous. The band were amazing, and everyone (including Lucy and Peter) were dancing at some stage of the night – there was a lovely atmosphere and it was just a fabulous party, both Jen & Joey obviously really enjoyed it too. Lucy and Peter really enjoyed it too, and I think were quite surprised at how the day had turned out.
Friday, Jen and Joey had arranged for their guests to visit a local beauty spot, waterfalls, and so coaches were laid on and packed lunches, and most people went along to that. Donald and I agreed that we would chill out at the hotel, and ended up joining up with J & J, Tam and Leila (the worlds best bridesmaids – who seemed to be going to live with J&J as they went on honeymoon with them too – well the first stage of the honeymoon anyway!). We caught up on the gossip and photo’s and had a lovely day.
We all split up for the evening, and we had a family meal at a local Chinese restaurant just down the road from us – we were 18, as Mark’s (my brothers) party was 8)
Just as we got back to the hotel in the evening (Friday 10 pm) , I had a text from Jen to inform me that they may be having to change the Saturday venue!!!!
Saturday morning we heard that the venue was not to be changed – it seems that there was some concern that the access to the hotel may not be passable – it was, so back to plan A.
At 10 am we loaded onto the bus and headed up the mountain, well up towards THE mountain – Kilimanjaro (which had not been seen for days because of the rain!) The access road was slippy and we had a few scares on the drive up to it, but all seemed to be going ahead with the preparations there. The do was supposed to start at 3.30, but we were having bets about whether it would be even on the go by 5, as we were all quite used to African time now. Flowers were being done, tables laid and tents were up.
We kicked Donald out again (poor chap) and dressed Jen in our room (rondella’s). This was the gold day, and I have to say she looked just amazing. We were taking it quite easy, having a drink and taking photo’s, when Donald came down at 3.30 to say that ‘you won’t believe it but everyone is seated!!!’
The rain had stopped about 2 hours previously! We walked Jen up to Joey and left them to make an entrance. This time I walked down the gold/yellow rose petal strewn aisle with Donald, and we were greeted with lots of ululating again. Then game the bride and groom ……
This was the Chagga party, and so there was lots of ululating, clapping and dancing. The goat cake (oh forgot to mention that there was one of them at the Thursday do too) was duly cut and then the traditional one was cut too – the bride and groom were each fed some, and they then fed some to their new respective in laws.
The basket ceremony took place, lots more ululating and clapping and singing and I then handed it to Jen with my few words of wisdom (I didn’t follow the script! – there’s a surprise!) I was also presented with a blanket, to keep me warm now that my daughter had left me!!
More wonderful food and lots of dancing. Then there was a surprise ceremony which I had not been warned about. The presenting of the Kanga’s – (the lengths of material which most women’s clothing is traditionally made from) (plus, according to Joanna Lumley, the most useful item in the world and the one thing she wanted to take with her on her dessert Island (discs) as it can be used for some many things)
I was led to a chair (and dragged Hil and Brenda with me) and we were sat down – on came the women with their ululating and singing, and each wrapped a kanga around us. There were loads possibly 20+, so it was getting a bit hot under them. They then danced around us singing and clapping – Daniel said that we looked like the three witches!!!
It all finished pretty early as most of the guests were from local villages and had to be bussed back, but it was another wonderful party.
And now it is over. Said farewell to guests as they drifted away on Sunday, cried buckets when Jen & Joey left (with Tam and Leila). They are spending a couple of days in Dar prior to flying to Botswana, and we are now in Zanzibar. Ad and Helen are in The Maldives for their belated honeymoon, and Dan and Vicky got back to Liverpool to discover a leak in their house and are now back to work.
Where does the time go! – the memories are wonderful, of Mwanza, game parks, parties, work, dala dalla’s and the wedding – and hopefully the photo’s will be good too. Donald is desperately hoping that this 10 day break we are having in luxury in Zanzibar will prepare me to go back home – I’m not so sure. I have loved being here and of course the wedding has been fantastic, we will see. But I am coming back - honest
So this will be my last blog (probably!) Thank you for reading it, for your patience and I will try not to bore you all too much on my return.
See you in the UK
Lots of love J
Tuesday, 22 April 2008
Family and guests gathering
Moshi 22nd April
Donald and I are now ‘embedded’ at the Impala Hotel, which is just around the corner from where the wedding will take place. We moved in here on Sunday, just as Jens friends started to arrive at Honey Badger. (Some with luggage, some without!!!)
Family is gathering too – Hil and Peter (my sister) have been on safari for a couple of days, and we understand all is good there, they have seen lots, and, their luggage is now at the hotel awaiting their arrival – phew!!!
My brother and his lot also arrived in Moshi having spent a week in
Both boys – Adam with Helen and Daniel with Vicky, touched down in Tz on Saturday, and are now having a bit of time to themselves at different locations, but all start to gather at The Impala or Honey Badger tonight.
Hil & Peter and Brenda and Ian will be with us tonight at The Impala – and us girls have been invited to Honey Badger tonight for a ‘kitchen evening’ – Lucy explained about it and it seems that the women of the clan gather to put stuff in a basket to prepare Jen for married life. I understand that there should be pots and pans etc. but not sure how symbolic it all is. I thought Jen should have been there too, but she and her girlfriends are out for a meal tonight, and Joey is with the guys. So I will have to represent her.
Another tradition (which I believe will be done on the Saturday – or maybe tonight – I don’t really know) is that the grooms clan present the brides mother with blankets and kanga’s – this is to keep her warm when she has handed her daughter over to another family. The theory being that the girl sleeps with her mother and so when she moves families the mothers bed will be cold!
Anyway I will be able to report what actually happens in a later blog. Lucy has told me the above and well we will see what actually happens.
The hotel we are at is one of the best in Moshi – but it is
Well this is the room which we will be using to dress the bride (did I tell you that the dresses are all here!!!! They arrived just as the heavens opened and it poured – just another hurdle overcome. Sure I did, but you can understand the satisfaction if you have followed the saga) – and I think we need light etc, so asked at the desk if they could replace the light bulbs. Well, says the manager, it is low season! Yes – and what does that mean – well we have problems with the lights in that room because the ceiling is very high – Yes – but …… A few other excuses were listed and I thought we were doomed to be dressing the bride in a dark room – but – later in the afternoon, the manager and his man, came along to ask for the key. They then clambered on top of wardrobes and stood, legs spread over two wardrobes, and managed to change one light, and adjust a few others, so progress.
The low season thing is quite interesting – they asked if we could pay for as much as possible with cash, because it is low season, and they need to use the cash to buy the stuff we need – food, drink etc. Tanzania is really a cash country – very few places take plastic (which is good as I suppose it means that debts don’t build up) and travellers cheques are just a no-no, but think that they dying elsewhere too. However, it does mean that you have to visit the ATM quite regularly – and as the biggest note is 10,000 – you can imagine the wedge of notes you have to carry around with you.
Yesterday we walked into town from here – about 30/40 minutes. Donald was really pleased to be ‘on the road again’, think he has missed walking. We followed a group of women who had huge trays of banana’s on their heads. They obviously pick them up from higher up our road and then walk them into town to sell. The trays were about 4ft by 2ft and fully loaded – we figure they must weigh 20kg+. Luckily the walk was downhill but some these women were obviously finding it difficult and kept shifting the load. On the way down we met some of them coming back up with empty trays, probably to reload and start again. If they were lucky they managed to sell some on the way, and so lighten the load. Its tough out here for some – possibly most!
We haven’t seen Kilimanjaro for a couple of days, the cloud is too low, and it has been quite wet and rainy – we are just crossing fingers for a dry days on Thursday and Saturday. When it does rain, it pours, but not for long, so hopefully we should be OK.
So the plan now is that today, Tuesday, we have the kitchen gathering for the girls (Myself, Hil and Brenda) and we will then join our guys later – hopefully it isn’t a whole evening thing.
Wednesday, Jen, Joey, Donald and I are going to the hotel where the wedding is to meet up with the band (The Tanzanites – who are coming in from Dar to perform, and who are apparently very well known) and also with the wedding planner, Monica. Monica is a family member who does this sort of thing for a living, and she is in charge of ‘dressing’ the room, doing the flowers and bouquets etc.
We then head to the District Commissioners office to do the legal wedding, this will be with immediate family only, ie parents and siblings. After that is completed, we will all, friends too, gather at Honey Badger for lunch.
At 3pm, Jen and her party will leave HB and come to The Impala where she has arranged for a couple of beauty therapists to come to pamper us. We are hosting the evening and hope to have a BBQ and salad for all our guests (assuming that the hotel has managed to get the stuff together, because it is low season!) and then Thursday it is The Wedding day.
Donald will be kicked out of our room, and the girls will come in – so exciting!
I will write again soon – but not sure when, as think I may be a bit pre occupied – I’m sure you understand.
Lots of love J
Saturday, 19 April 2008
Safari and wedding celebrations start
We are now in Moshi (Its Saturday 18th) and fully into wedding preparations. The table plan has been a nightmare, but seems it is now done, and hopefully it will work.
Last night Hilary & Peter (my sister and her husband) came to Honey Badger for a meal and it was lovely to see her and to catch up with everything. Unfortunately when they arrived in Tz their luggage didn’t and so they have had to get what they can from wherever – and this included Sagar & Ruth (Joey’s best man and his wife) sorting through their clothes and a trip into Moshi to buy some things. I believe Hil has had an outfit made for her, and understand that there is quite a story around the purchase. Anyway, they are now off on safari for a couple of days and return to Moshi on Tuesday, when hopefully their luggage will be waiting.
In the meantime, Donald and I have had a wonderful few days on safari ourselves. We hired a car (no driver) and we two set off for Ngorongoro Crater Lodge where we met up with Brenda and Ian (friends from home who are coming to the wedding). The Lodge we stayed at there was amazing, every detail thought of, we had our own butler, the bath was run for us and full of hot soapy water with rose petals around the bath and candles lit – forget the rose petals and candles – HOT SOAPY WATER and A BATH!!!! What bliss! There was a fire lit for us in the evening, and it was an absolutely fabulous lodge to stay in – if anyone of you ever gets the chance then go and visit it, really worth a stay. There were buffalo roaming around the grounds, and you have to be escorted by an askari once it is dark – I actually wouldn’t have minded being escorted during the day light as those buffalo were bloody big! But think they were ‘relatively’ tame, or at least used to people walking around them. They often went under the lodges too – the rooms being in individual round lodges on stilts. They were not bothered about hitting the stilts, I was, as they did bang around (snort and fart a bit too) as well as being covered with flies – but I wasn’t going to argue with them.
Anyway we had a wonderful two days there with B & I. Donald and I went along to Oldupai Gorge – the place where the oldest known skeleton was found. Really interesting and a lovely drive to it from the lodge.
We parted with B&I and they went on to further luxury in tented camps and our accommodation seemed to go downhill from there – having said that it would have been difficult to improve on Crater Lodge. We had two nights at Lake Manyara and drove thro the park, which is lovely. Saw loads of game and wonderful birds – no cats unfortunately, but it is difficult seeing cats when the grass is high (and you have no guide who uses the radio to find out where they are!) Saw loads of elephants and giraffes, which is fabulous and spent time just watching them and taking photo’s of course. There is a wonderful feeling of space here in the parks – the sky seems to be endless and the views are just amazing.
We next went on to Tarangire Park, which is known for its elephants, and boy did we see them. Our room looked onto the park from a ridge (part of the Rift Valley) and we were elephant spotting from there. Also felt a small earth quake – which often happens in the Rift Valley apparently – just the plates moving a bit. Brilliant.
Unfortunately we were bitten to hell there – loads of flies in part of the park, so itching like mad at the moment and taking anti histamine, so a small price to pay – just hope that the bites disappear by the wedding day!
So now we are back in Moshi and getting into wedding mode. The travellers are homing in, just heard that Ad and Helen are in Dubai awaiting a transfer and also just had a text from Dan and Vicky who are in Amsterdam. Hil and Peter, as I said are off on Safari and Mark and Tina and their crew have been in Zanzibar for a bit and are coming to Moshi today and then they are going off on Safari for a few days too.
So that’s a quick catch up
Love to all
J
Thursday, 10 April 2008
Leaving Mwanza
11th April, 2008
Dresses done!!!! And gosh are they something !!!! Packed and ready – going hand luggage (despite what the airline think!)
And so we are all packed up and ready to go! We seem to have more stuff than we came with, which surely must be impossible.
Jen and Joey are coming to collect us soon, and will take us to the airport – we fly to Moshi today and will stay at Honey Badger lodge tonight with Lucy and Peter.
Tomorrow, we go to Ngororo Crater where we join up with some friends (Brenda and Ian) for a couple of nights. Then we have a couple of nights in each of two other game parks. We are self driving, so that should be fun.
When we return to Moshi we will be in full wedding mode, and I will try to add to the blog then. In the meantime, hope to see elephants and other game, but looking forward to being on the move I think.
Lots of love
JTuesday, 8 April 2008
Dress Making!
Well not much to report really – we are winding down here in Mwanza. Jen and I seem to be spending more time with Famida (dress maker) than anything else. Jen’s Saturday dress is now almost finished – and gosh what a dress. This is the one that Famida has made from scratch – well from photo’s of other dresses Jen tried on in the UK. The fabric, and I can tell you that it is gold, was sent to India to be hand embroidered, and it has now been put together by Famida’s fundi, who is really very good. He is Indian, doesn’t speak Swahili and very little English. There is a lot of head wobbling when he and Famida talk (heavily discuss!!), but he has really done an amazing job on this dress.
The other dress, for Thursday (the one I brought out with me) is now being altered to fit – and mine – well mine caused a bit of a discussion yesterday when we went along. I hope that today it will be ‘try-on-able’ if not finished. We will see at five ish tonight. We leave on Friday, and it is now Wednesday!
Meanwhile, I am collecting another two outfits I have had made by a Tanzanian charity group called Binti Maringo (which stands for fair working conditions). This is the place which has just opened a restaurant near where my placement was. They also have a dress making service and a furniture making service and all profits go to support the unit they have for street kids. Anyway, these are two African type outfits – so exciting.
Think I will go up to Samaritans with Donald today to see the finished results – sounds that quite a lot has gone on there at last, and it will be good to see it. Believe that Joey will be taking the final filming today as well.
And so need to start thinking of packing up – ohhhhh - I could really stay longer, but know Donald is ready to move on, and we have safari and wedding and then holiday to go before returning home.
Lots of love
J
Letter From Mwanza - No 16
This will really be my last blog, at least, from Mwanza. Today (Tuesday 8th April) is my last day at MSA – well that’s the intention as I write this in the cool and opening movement of the 6 am chorus. More about MSA after I made a few concluding comments about my stay here.
I am really ready to move on although it’s been lovely to be close to Jenny and Joey. They have both been very attentive, but perhaps my patience at having to wait around for long periods is being rather too stretched. It hasn’t been made easier by the ball and socket mechanism, called my left hip, not finding any comfortable place to be. That’s not quite true as I’ve found a very comfortable settee at the Tilapia Hotel and it’s fine when walking. I think Jane thinks I’ve become a bit of a ‘Forest Gump’ as I have enjoyed just taking off and going out walking. It is unfortunate that Milestone House (our ‘home’) doesn’t have any nice area to sit outside. We are left on plastic seats in a concrete courtyard with a dusty road outside the bolted gates. No, this isn’t prison, or public school for that matter, as we are free to come and go when we please!!
Perhaps I’m being a tad harsh on Mwanza, which is a friendly and decent place with a good climate and many lovely views. It might be just me – Africa or the parts I’ve spent some time in have been great because I managed to lead a very active life. I am sure that if I could have played more sport, be more involved in work activity, or have the willingness (and capacity) to be out late socializing it would have been great, but unfortunately time has moved on a bit since those days. So I think I will look forward to returning for a much shorter duration and procure a suitable sitting object with a view of the lake! Jenny’s landlord is building some luxury apartments by the lake, which could be good.
My last blog indicated the intention not to contribute more to the basic running costs of MSA however hard that might be. The reasoning being that sticking the odd plaster on a problem isn’t going to sort things out in the long term, and that it what Saidia Tz wants to be about. So when Joey and I left Moschye on Thursday we made it clear that we might contribute more in order that a good teacher could be found for the computer classes, but that was it. Money for electricity, water, rent, food etc would have to be found by other means or even the centre being closed until more funding became available. In fact I didn’t think that to be such a bad thing as I think Moschye could do with a break. Anybody faced with no money coming in for nearly 6 months without reserves is bound to be getting down. So that’s how we left it. He would think about things and get back to us if he needed anything more from us. He phoned yesterday which was a bit unexpected as it was public holiday. ‘Karume Day’ – that is after the chap who together with Mwalimu Nyrerere forged together Zanzibar and Tanganyika to form Tanzania. Incidentally the tension between these two territories still exists today and is probably the most difficult political issue the country faces. Anyway back to MSA. Moschye phoned and said he wanted to show me something and discuss a couple of issues. So off I walked (of course) and on arriving noticed two new glass doors into the computer room. I didn’t say anything because, although he had mentioned about doing this on Thursday, I was not at all sure where he would get the money from to pay for them. I walked into his office without going through the new doors first. His office I had indicated in my ‘action plan’ needed a bloody good clear out, and I had tentatively put it down for getting done in May. I was gob-smacked when I entered – it actually looked like an office. A table had been removed, the assortment of books and papers had been cleared and those deemed important put orderly on a bookshelf that had previously been like an island that needed passing in the middle of the room. I could even see the floor. It had obviously taken a huge amount of effort to do it so well. If that wasn’t enough Moschye, smiling now, suggested we have a look in the computer training room (to be). Based on the possibility that the centre might have to be closed for a month or so we suggested to Moschye that he leaves the computers etc in there boxes so as not to get dusty. So off we go to have a look. Do I mention about the glass doors? I decide to keep quiet, and go through them. There inside are 5 plastic covered computer screens sitting neatly on our newly made tables with the other bits that I am told are important to the functioning of these machines below on the ‘designed’ ledge below to keep them off the potentially dusty floor. I had thought we had agreed that we would start with 4 only and keep two in reserve, but that really doesn’t matter. The printer from the office is also there. The table from the office has been moved to be the teacher’s table, and supports one of the older computers from the office. It had all been installed and works without too many wires showing. Brilliant! It really looked like we were going to have a proper training room.
We then went back to his ‘new’ office and discussed about administration, teaching course-work, pricing and other aspects of the project. I came away feeling we were really getting somewhere. I left saying Joey and I would return tomorrow. I left feeling I had no alternative, but to give him the extra money needed to get the project going and take some of the financial pressures off him so that he has a chance to earn his own income. Well let’s hope it works out like that ……………..
So it’s now Tuesday and we have been back. The money has been handed over without any instructions as to where or when it should be spent. That’s up to Moschye and I think he will really do his best to get this project off and running. Just to surprise me more he has the opening date for the 11th - not May, but April in 2 days time!! I have said my cautionary bit about making sure he has things in place before starting, but it is up to him now.
So that’s the start, and the bottom line is for between £500 and £600 we have bought some food for the children, refurbished a whole room, kept the electricity and water from being cut off, have some money to pay for a computer teacher, bought an inkjet cartridge for the printer, had sign writing done on the face of the building, and had chairs and tables made for the donated computers. We also have new glass doors, but I am not mentioning them! In addition Moschye has a report which if he goes somewhere down the road to achieving should have MSA in a reasonable financial position in about 6 months. We have also done a ‘bid’ for about £10,000 from a Portuguese charity, which Moschye feels very confident about getting. At least it’s in a form and language that should get it read. Finally and probably the nicest part was the frenzy of activity from the orphan children as they came into the ‘new’ computer training room. We are now all very good at saying hello and goodbye to each other in Swahili and English, and it was a joy to see so many smiling faces. Let’s hope they keep them in the years to come.
So that’s what the Romans have done for Mwanza Samaritans!! This comment is only applicable to those old enough to have seen the Monty Python film.
Goodbye and kwa heri from Mwanza.
DonaldFriday, 4 April 2008
Our last week in Mwanza
Yep – we are in our last week. We fly to Moshi on Friday, spend a night at Honey Badger and then go off for a few days Safari. When we return to Moshi we will be in full wedding mode – staying at the hotel rather than Honey Badger and awaiting the arrival of family and friends from all over the world.
Yesterday was my last day at my placement – Joey had planned to come in to take the last filming (for my DVD) but I decided to go in before him, rather than going with him and Donald to Samaritans to watch their filming. So off I went on the Dala Dalla – and – got a front seat this time. Gosh I thought, great, - space and comfort, ie no ones armpit in my face, and a view so I can see where I am going. However, then got going and thought maybe I would be better in the back. The door I was having to lean on, because the woman who was also in the front was not of small proportions, was not secure and rattled badly and so I had to hold onto the handle on the roof in case it opened on its own. Also the driver was a bit enthusiastic when it came to stopping to pick up passengers. The windscreen was already pretty cracked, and of course, no seat belts – other than for the driver!!!! Anyway, got there OK and walked through to TACOPE.
Glad I decided to go earlier than the boys, because they had made plans. They were all there, Mr Messo, George, Telly (my co volunteer – his name is Telly Belly – Did I already tell you that? Some Tanzanians have trouble with L’s and R’s, and I thought that his name was Terry, but its not it is actually Telly Belly) plus Konda and more. In fact the ‘office’ was packed. “Welcome welcome”, was said “such a sad day, your last day!” The plan was to take me to see someone at the Ward office (smaller than district, which is in turn smaller than the Council) who had been in before and invited me to go to see her office.
So we (five of us!) walk down the street and around the corner, through some muddy side streets – don’t know why they were muddy as it hasn’t rained here for 5 or 6 days – through a market and into the courtyard of offices where we went to look for computers. One small office there was the ward office, but the person we went to see had gone out! So long chats to discover this and then long farewells, and off we go. But undaunted, Mr Messo then leads us unannounced into the Co-operative Bank. The Manager was very welcoming and we were all invited into his office, signed their visitors book, and Mr Messo asked that he explain their bank us.
Customers who want loans (small loans ranging from 60,000 Tsh = £30 for school fee’s etc up to 10,000,000 Tsh = £5,000) have to join the co-operative and pay fee’s. So its 12,000 pa subscriptions, this can be paid at 1,000 per month. If this money is left in the account for three months, then 10% interest is paid on it. The joining fee is 30,0000, and they have to put in 40% of the money they want to borrow !!!!! They are then charged 20% for the loan. They also have to have some collateral – which can then be taken from them should they fail to make the required payments, and there is no protection like we have in the UK, ie anything/everything can be taken. However, apparently some 99% of the loans are paid back in time. At the end of the financial year there are dividends paid out to members who have more than 5 shares!!!
This, says Mr Messo, is why TACOPE are trying to set up a credit finance project, which gives loans to people who want to set up their own small businesses. You need money to borrow money from the co-operative, but the credit finance project is less stringent and more user friendly, and will be sustainable, as the repaid loans can then be loaned out again. I didn’t need convincing, but we do need to get donors to support the project – which is what we have been searching for.
So then back to the office to find Joey and Donald waiting there for us, plus 4 or 5 other guys who seem to have come in too. Filming and farewells took place, and then I was getting ready to go off with J & D, but they said no you can’t go yet – it was only 11.30, so I agreed to hang on a bit and meet Donald in town later. We then spent some time taking photo’s and I put them on the computer, and then Mr Messo walked me to the end of the street to say bye. Hope that we will be able to meet sometime next week for a drink, Joey may try to arrange this, but otherwise I will pop in when I am next in Mwanza to see how they are going – not sure much will change – but they are a group of well meaning and hard working people, its just that the pace of work and life is so different out here.
All in all, I hope that I have helped a bit, I think I have, if only by setting them up with a computer, getting together some information that they can send out to donors easily and the knowledge of how to put together letters of enquiry etc. They are sending these out to big donors at the moment, President Clintons fund, Gates Foundation and USAID, which is Bush’s fund – but hopefully they will be a bit more selective in time and possibly get some successes – we will see.
On my walk up the road this morning I saw my first snake (Sorry Mark!) well it was very small, almost a big worm, and it was dead, squashed by a car, but it was definitely a snake – I have been terrified that I might see one. However, I also saw two mongoose’s (mongeese) run across the road in front of me, so that may be why I haven’t seen any snakes – they eat them!!
Donald and I spent the afternoon on Friday at the hotel, The Tilapia, which is the best one in town. Very much a mzungo hang out and also used by the miners – so not Jen or Joey’s favourite place, but as I think I have said before it is a perfect spot and very nicely set out. But the mzungo community had a hell of a shock on Thursday, two guys, one from the UK and one from Australia (24 year old), who were pilots for a small charter company who do a lot of work for the mines etc were killed when the plane they were flying crashed just next to the airport. There were just the two of them in the plane. As I have said before the mzungo community is quite small and therefore quite close, and most know each other if not reasonably well, then definitely on nodding acquaintance or from parties etc. So everyone here is very subdued and shocked by what has happened.
So we hung around with the guys for a bit but then left them and came home by taxi. When we got in, we could hear some wonderful choir/church singing going on – this was at 10 pm on a Friday night (not Easter either). There was obviously a church full and when the singing stopped, the preacher
/priest, started and was in full swing getting everyone responding to him etc etc. I realised why it sounded so loud. Most churches look half built, ie no windows etc, and that is obviously so that there is more air moving around, but it also means that the sound travels further. We also have some windows which have no glass in, and so the music was load and clear in our living room. It was still going on at 1 am!!! Really still in full swing and loud and clear at 1 am – I think I fell asleep to it, so not sure when it actually finished. Obviously something needed to be celebrated, remembered or worshiped, but I have to say I was surprised at the timing.
So today, Saturday, is the day that the dress making fundi is working on Jen’s wedding dresses and mine!!! We have 5 days before we leave and 7 days before Jen & Joey leave – nothing like leaving things to the last minute. We then have to work out who is taking what. We will be packing to leave here and J&J will be packing to leave, get married and go off for their honeymoon, so a bit of organising to be worked out. But sure it will be worked out, eventually.
OK – think I have updated you sufficiently – will be in touch again soon.
Lots of love
J
Letter from Mwanza - No 15
A few things have stimulated me enough to write another blog. On Tuesday this week I bought a copy of the Daily News. I don’t do it every day, but the headline attracted my attention. ’President Jakaya Kitwete re-appoints former Prime minister Lowassa’. My heart sank – What are these guys up to, I thought? The Richmond scandal reported in my first blog I hoped marked a turning point in tackling governmental incompetence and corruption, and here we are 10 weeks later re-appointing the head of this scandal. The article in the top left of the front page, where major items are displayed, went on to give details and referred the reader to the second page for more details. This I did to be told it was the 1st of April, and no re-instatement had occurred - nice one!!
In the same position in the Thursday edition the headline read, “ZANU – PF loses parliament”. The total coverage for this election on that day was less then 100 words. This was surprising to me because I thought there would be a lot more interest shown here, but there isn’t. Perhaps its because Zimbabwe is a warn out piece of news in the same way Somalia, Darfur, Congo and other countries are to the UK press. Perhaps its because from our euro-centric viewpoint we focus on ex-colonies who seem to be/ are making a bit of a hash of governing themselves, and thereby contributing to the myth that in some way our colonialism was a good thing. Perhaps even to the point where we feel we should still be in charge by some means. Perhaps its just because newspapers in Tanzania are not much different to those in the UK and focus on what readers want to see, - sport, stars, scandals, and other things starting with s! You will be interested to know there was a huge picture of the Eagles performing in Rotterdam as part of their ‘Long Road Out of Eden World Tour’, and a huge volume of words and pictures given over to Manchester United. I’m afraid I just can’t concur with the reporter who writes an article about how the thinking is Christiano Ronaldo is a better player than Best or Law!!
My placement draws to a close. Although we have identified some good income generating activities for MSA, and have focused on getting a Computer Tuition Centre going, I will leave Moshye with some difficult decisions to make. The room for the Tuition Classes has been painted, desks made, chairs made, electrical work done, and it even has a newly painted sign on the outside of the building. However past lack of funding has caught up with us. The volunteer programme does include a sum of money (about £300) to be used to help provide something really needed to get a project going and be sustainable. Although this does not seem a lot this sort of money goes a long way here. In fact doing all the above has been around that figure. Pretty nearly from the beginning Moshye has collared me to give towards this and that. We did give about £100 towards food for the orphans, and then worries concerning having the water and electricity being cut off made us give him a bit more to keep them at bay. He still has not paid anything to the landlord this year, and the night security guards have been cancelled because they couldn’t be paid. Teachers and cooks only get paid if there is anything in the kitty; otherwise seem to have been content in getting a meal at lunchtime. Hence the importance of buying food which doesn’t just go to the orphans, So the tough one is do we stump up another few hundred pounds in addition to the agreed ‘Community Trust’ money built in to volunteer programme, or do we say “I’m sorry, but we can’t help here”?
We had hoped Vodacom who have donated the computers we intend to use were going to help with some of the installation costs, but they said this week they couldn’t at the moment. So we have cracked on to complete the work, and I have indicated we will leave a sum to contribute to the teacher prior to money coming in from paying students. Now its over to Moshye to see if he can battle through to get MSA into a position where he can at least pay his running costs, and then get regular income from the education and computer classes.
So it seems we return to the theme of micro and macro comparisons. Is it effective on a national scale to offer aid donations to achieve long-term growth and sustainability? Is this no different to the situation we find ourselves with MSA? If we sort out the immediate situation with a few hundred pounds will MSA be any different in the future? I somehow doubt it. Therefore I think the nation-states or NGOs are faced with the same problem, and have with similar solutions. Determined and incorruptible leadership dedicated to help its population without relying on handouts from others is the key to development.
Tanzania has a lot going for it – yes it is desperately poor in many ways, and there are huge problems to overcome. However it can be guaranteed a huge amount of good-will, it has many natural resources, it has population at peace with itself, land ownership is not the divisive issue it is many places around the world, and there are many talented people here.
Kwa heri
DonaldWednesday, 2 April 2008
Water and wedding
3rd April, 2008
Well you will I know all be pleased to know that we now have water supplied again to Milestone House. Touch and go on Monday when we got home having been told that it was re connected, when we turned on a tap to find nothing coming through – however, the outside tap had been turned off and when that was reversed, voila, we had water again. Have to say it makes me wonder if we had turned that tap a few days ago……. but no we have been told that we were cut off.
So – what else. Well it seems that the rains may have passed – (Jen and Joey desperately hoping so) we haven’t had a storm for a couple of days and it has really become very hot and sultry.
Wedding plans seem to be building up too. Dresses – the one which was being embroidered in India (Jen’s Saturday dress) has now arrived back in Mwanza – well the embroidered material has, the dress still has to be sewn. But as I said, Famida seems confident – En Shalla!!! And is expecting it to be put together this weekend – we leave on Friday and Jen & Joey leave on Saturday, so should be loads of time !!!!!!! We went to see her today to look at the fabric, (which I have to say is amazing) and asked to look again at mine so that I could ensure shoes were OK etc – she couldn’t find it. She has so much stuff, fabrics, sari’s etc all over her house, we (and she) did start to panic a bit – but the material was found in the end and so all is OK.
Yesterday and today the boys have been collecting their suits. Purchased from Famida’s husband, who got them from Dubai on their way back from India. There was an element of panic there too, as Joey’s suit for Saturday didn’t quite fit – but after a lot of running around Mwanza on a very hot (very hot!) afternoon – seems all is OK and so he and Donald are now sorted. Ties for the wedding party are also sorted and should be great.
Think the bride and groom are beginning to find life a bit difficult – there is so much happening and so much they have to organise, plus normal work and life, I think it is all getting on top of them. I do try to help but it is them that are doing the organising and so it is limited as to what I can do.
I keep thinking back to my wedding, (34 years ago!!!) when my mother and Donald’s father just took over the whole shebang – Donald and I were only allowed to invite a few of our friends, it was all taken out of our hands, as was the way then. Not sure which is right, if either are, but we do keep trying to calm them down and do hope that they will be able to enjoy the day.
Oh – we didn’t end up going for dinner with the Priest on Tuesday, Joey got the day wrong (see what I mean about stressed) but we are going on Thursday so will up date you then.
We are in our last week at our placements – tho Donald may end up doing some stuff next week too. My Mr Messo sounded very upset when he said to me today, but your last day is the day after tomorrow !!!! Yep. We do seem to be getting stuff done this week tho, and I think that they will be left with something they can use in the future – I hope so anyway. Samaritans meanwhile seem to be coming up against more and more problems with setting up their Computer Training income generation scheme, and I know that Donald really wants to leave them with it up and running, but he seems to be having to dip into his pockets more and more to enable it to happen. Well we will see.
There is a place in Mwanza which has just opened up a new restaurant – it is an income generation scheme for a charity which looks after street kids. They have the restaurant, and teach the youngsters how to cook and serve in it, they also have a carpentry shop, and all the tables and furniture in the restaurant are made there, and there is also a dress making facility/shop there. There is a Swiss guy who has been involved with them setting this place up and it really has been finished off well – almost to European standards, and certainly much better than the normal ones around here.
Anyway, it’s quite close to my placement and only opened a couple of weeks ago, so I have started frequenting it for lunch, and Donald tends to walk into town to meet me there (when he comes into town that is). Last week I asked them to make me an outfit, and just got it today. Really pleased with it, and going to have another made there too. The food is good, but very slow, think because everything is made fresh and its still not too busy a place, but it is open sided and under shade so it is quite pleasant sitting there watching the world go by.
Mwanza has had the president visiting, twice last week, on his way through to some conference somewhere. Whenever a dignitary goes through town, the cars are all stopped so that the main road from the airport to town is clear – it causes chaos, but the dignitary mustn’t be caught up in traffic (like the rest of us).
My Dala Dala got stopped by the police this morning. The police are always stopping vehicles to check that – well not to check that they are roadworthy – but probably to check that their licences are paid up. The policewoman looked in the vehicle (there were 20 in it including the driver – so room for one more by my reckoning) – don’t forget it is a 14 seater mini bus!!! So she looked, then wrote something on her clipboard, and off we went again. The vehicle was so not roadworthy but the road tax had obviously been paid so it was allowed to carry on. What a system!
OK – out for a meal with some friends of J & J’s – so off to have a shower (hurrah – cold! - but still its water!)
Speak soon
