Sunday 8am – or in Swahili time, ‘saa mbili’ (two o’clock), the sun is up in the blue sky, a slight breeze, chickens in full cry, the crunch of feet passing by on the road, and a swishing sound of someone sweeping next door. Sweeping with the tied together reeds is done for hours as the red/orange dust gets everywhere. In fact in town it is a constant job for many women to try to keep the dust and litter off the tarmac roads. On the whole they do a remarkable job, avoiding the tooting cars, having to breath in not only the car fumes, but also the dust, and often working with their hands and cardboard to move the dust into wheel barrows to be put on a pile which will blow away to start the whole process again.
Talking of roads – friends of Jenny & Joey, Rafael and Mike together with J & J have put together a great easy to read map of Mwanza. Rafael is an interesting chap as not only is he a wiz at charades; but he also does work for the Lonely Planet. Next week he is off to Egypt for 5 weeks to put together part of a new guide for the Middle East. Seemingly these guys get a retainer and expenses and then chug around various places taking photos and writing about the current places of interest. Sounds like one of those dream jobs; but is probably very hard work and needs a very special sort of person to do it.
Back to the Mwanza map, or as I call it the ‘Mappa Mwanza Mondi’. What is interesting is that very few roads have names. For example, if you need to ask a taxi to get you to a specific house, say number 34, The Street, it would most likely make little sense. What you need to do is find the nearest land- mark to describe where you want to go. Getting to Jenny’s place is therefore ‘the place next to the police mess’ (Their club, not a mess that they have created!)
Of course, there are street names and it is these names that interest me. Thinking back to my Kampala days in the early 70’s, I clearly recollect how after Idi Amin came to power the names of the main roads were changed. The main one was changed to ‘25th January 1971 Street’ – remembered by Jane as it was her 21st birthday! That is when he gained power over Milton Obote. It seems that whatever the current name is it gives a clue to the current historical thinking. So, Tanzanian towns and cities are no doubt full of Uhuru and Nyerere Roads. Freedom, and the name of the man still revered as the first President of the country to whom history is still painting in a very much better light than many other first ‘leaders’ is fully understandable. However, what about, Nasser Drive, Lumbumba Rd, Nkhruma Rd and Kenyatta Rd? The logic is clear, they were all men (my open university studies, where the gender questions always has to be asked, begs the question, when and where will there be the first woman president of an African state!) and all were first Presidents of their countries who were in position at the time of the end the hegemony of colonialist or monarchical rule. Do they merit a street/road named after them now? If they don’t then who should they be replaced with, or would it be better if people were not used at all!
Not only were these four men first presidents, they were also hugely charismatic figures. All of them, for some time at least, gave real hope and optimism to people not only in their countries, but to others as well. Nasser was a man who saw himself as a champion of Arab unity and African liberation intent on ridding the area of foreign domination. Lumumba, an articulate intelligent and energetic man started the ‘Movement National Congolais’ in it struggle to gain liberation from Belgium which it did in 1960. Kwame Nkrumah, like many future leaders, had been imprisoned by his former colonialist masters, also launched a political party ‘The Conventions People’s Party’ which took the Gold Coast/Ghana into independence. This time in 1957. Even at such a tender age, I still sensed the excitement of this proud black man adorned on vividly bright stamps who was going to be a man of the future. As he stood next to the Queen at the Commonwealth Conference in June 1957 a new world order seemed to be possible. Jomo Kenyatta, another graduate of a British gaol, was to take Kenya independent in 1963, and be an ever-present feature of political Africa for many years, with his pin-stripped suits, colourful hat and fly whip.
Do they merit to still be close to the consciousness of people passing by their name today? Perhaps I really need to stand next to these signs and ask people passing by what they feel? Of course they, and others still alive and in charge today like Robert Mugabe and Muammar Gaddafi, should be remembered for their important contribution to the move away from political colonialism. At this point in history most people agree that this was a good thing. However, and it is a big however, it seems most were ill prepared or unwilling to start a political system which really benefited the majority of the population. How quickly some of the noble words of independence moved towards graft, corruption and nepotism! I would not like to comment on whose fault that is – certainly the fact that political colonialism was replaced by foreign economic colonialism and self-interest, in many cases, didn’t help. There are many opinions on this subject. I will just leave this blog with my own divisions of leaders who I believe have made a positive and long lasting difference to the majority population.
In the first division, I would put Nelson Mandela, Samora Machel and Julius Nyerere. Perhaps you have your own thoughts on you would have in your top division, who you would have in the other divisions, and who you would like to be thrown out completely!!
Kwa heri for now.
Donald
Tuesday, 26 February 2008
Domestic Arrangements
23rd February, 2008
Sunday morning – woke to find Donald had been inspired to write another “letter from Mwanza” (does anyone realise that it is titled this in the style of Alistair Cooke’s “letter from America”? We both used to love listening to his letters read by him with his wonderfully distinct voice. Anyway, as he was inspired I thought I’d have a go too, as I would be typing his up later (yep, I do the typing, he hand writes his).
I realise that I haven’t told you too much about our domestic arrangements. As you will see, I now know how to put photo’s on the blog, so (hopefully) I will be able to put some up of our African home, Milestone House next.
SAIDIA have rented this house for their volunteers, and so it is a big place. Hopefully when full it will have at least 8 volunteers in it, but currently we have it all to ourselves. It is a concrete rendered, semi detached, bungalow with a corrugated roof. The gate (which is always kept locked) is just off a dirt road, which is, for some reason we have not yet discovered as we haven’t walked up the road yet, quite a busy one.
So we come in through a big solid mental gate, which is always kept locked, into a courtyard area, which is partially covered. This is where we spend most of the time during the day if we are here. We have our Swahili lessons here and I am sat there now typing this out. There are four plastic chairs and a plastic table and there is a lovely breeze which flows around – the sun doesn’t hit the full courtyard, so it is a lovely place to sit. Unfortunately we don’t use it at night as this is where our Askari sits whilst here.
We then have a big iron door-grate to unlock to get into the bungalow. All the windows are barred, and meshed and some have glass. Those that don’t are like that on purpose, so as to allow the breeze through. The ceilings are high and the floors red painted concrete and so it is a cool house. We walk into the lounge/dining area. There is a desk in it, three settee’s and a dining table and chairs, and loads of room for much more furniture, but actually its better with less. All the furniture (apart from the bought plastic stuff outside) has been made here. You don’t see furniture shops here as such, you just go to a fundi (tradesman) and he makes it for you. Its all in good solid wood and the cushions are thick sponge covered in kikoi material (the thin cotton wraps which women wear wrapped around them). The curtains are made from the same material (similar pattern) and they almost close properly.
To walk to the bedrooms/bathrooms and kitchen, we go through another room which Jen & Joey have set up with a huge notice board. This contains a big map of Tanzania, maps of the nearest game parks, and one of Mwanza (which Joey and some of his mates put together and it is really good). There are photo’s up of some of the placements Joey has set up, and a few notices of useful numbers etc and from this room we go into the kitchen (jikoni), a shower room, a toilet (choo) and the bedrooms (chumba). There are rugs around and the whole place does look quite homely – in a sparse kind of way.
The kitchen is basically two tables against walls, with a sink at the corner. The sink has a cold water tap only (well there is no hot water here at all) and the cooker is a two ring gas burner. We have a kettle (or did, it doesn’t seem to be working at the moment!) a toaster and a water purifier. Water should not be used straight from the tap for drinking or cooking ie washing food prior to use. To use the purifier we are supposed to take water from the tap and ensure it rapid boils for a good while (I think 10 minutes – which seems a long time, you will have no water left by then!!) It then has to cool (covered) and when it is cool you put it into the top container of the purifier. The water then drips slowly through a filter into the bottom container, which has a tap on it. We can then use the water to bottle it and put it in the fridge. BUT, as the water has been on and off here quite a bit, it does come through the taps quite brown and mucky – so we decided to buy some big containers of water instead. I write this to give you some flavour of how much longer everything seems to take here, and why.However to get hot water, we must boil it. To ‘shower’ we take a bowl of hot water into the shower room (fully tiled and floor sloping to a drain) and wash ourselves with that water – and then rinse off with a cold shower (I actually rinse off with more warm water, unless it is really hot and sticky)
The beds are again hand made and chunky and we have mossie net frames above them, so you have to fight your way out of it in the middle of the night if you need the loo. Oh yes, we do have an en suite, with a shower and a bath in it, but yep, no hot water so ……
So that’s the house I think – there are three other bedrooms, not yet fully kitted out, and a back yard where we hang our washing and use the BBQ.
Donald has already mentioned about Doudi (our Askari / guard) and how we feel guilty about leaving him outside all night – we never know what to say to him when we come in of an evening. We can’t really say Good Night (lala salama) as that’s sleep well, Good Bye (Kwa Heri) is not right and so we have had to learn another phrase – usiku mwema (nice night), but that doesn’t appease the guilt.
We also have Violet who comes in three times a week and cleans for us and does the washing. (Tho I do our smalls – which is another long a drawn out task – tho not too onerous, one has to have something to do during the day doesn’t one!) She is lovely and speaks good English and is very smart and friendly.
The only other thing about our daily life here is that we are of course car less (tho Jen & Joey have said that we can use their car at any time.) We do however have a list of taxi drivers who a) speak some English b) know where we live and c) have agreed prices to get us from town to home etc and that system seems to work well. The Dala Dala’s really seem like too much hard work
So you now know more about where we live – its comfortable, clean and spacious and already feels like home.
One of the smaller luxuries I have, is that pedicures/massages etc are really cheap here – and good too – so I am off for a pedicure at a local hotel at lunchtime, and we may possibly have lunch and a swim there too – life is good. Hopefully J&J will meet us there and we can have a wedding ‘meeting’.
Love to all, and thanks for emails,Love J
Sunday morning – woke to find Donald had been inspired to write another “letter from Mwanza” (does anyone realise that it is titled this in the style of Alistair Cooke’s “letter from America”? We both used to love listening to his letters read by him with his wonderfully distinct voice. Anyway, as he was inspired I thought I’d have a go too, as I would be typing his up later (yep, I do the typing, he hand writes his).
I realise that I haven’t told you too much about our domestic arrangements. As you will see, I now know how to put photo’s on the blog, so (hopefully) I will be able to put some up of our African home, Milestone House next.
SAIDIA have rented this house for their volunteers, and so it is a big place. Hopefully when full it will have at least 8 volunteers in it, but currently we have it all to ourselves. It is a concrete rendered, semi detached, bungalow with a corrugated roof. The gate (which is always kept locked) is just off a dirt road, which is, for some reason we have not yet discovered as we haven’t walked up the road yet, quite a busy one.
So we come in through a big solid mental gate, which is always kept locked, into a courtyard area, which is partially covered. This is where we spend most of the time during the day if we are here. We have our Swahili lessons here and I am sat there now typing this out. There are four plastic chairs and a plastic table and there is a lovely breeze which flows around – the sun doesn’t hit the full courtyard, so it is a lovely place to sit. Unfortunately we don’t use it at night as this is where our Askari sits whilst here.
We then have a big iron door-grate to unlock to get into the bungalow. All the windows are barred, and meshed and some have glass. Those that don’t are like that on purpose, so as to allow the breeze through. The ceilings are high and the floors red painted concrete and so it is a cool house. We walk into the lounge/dining area. There is a desk in it, three settee’s and a dining table and chairs, and loads of room for much more furniture, but actually its better with less. All the furniture (apart from the bought plastic stuff outside) has been made here. You don’t see furniture shops here as such, you just go to a fundi (tradesman) and he makes it for you. Its all in good solid wood and the cushions are thick sponge covered in kikoi material (the thin cotton wraps which women wear wrapped around them). The curtains are made from the same material (similar pattern) and they almost close properly.
To walk to the bedrooms/bathrooms and kitchen, we go through another room which Jen & Joey have set up with a huge notice board. This contains a big map of Tanzania, maps of the nearest game parks, and one of Mwanza (which Joey and some of his mates put together and it is really good). There are photo’s up of some of the placements Joey has set up, and a few notices of useful numbers etc and from this room we go into the kitchen (jikoni), a shower room, a toilet (choo) and the bedrooms (chumba). There are rugs around and the whole place does look quite homely – in a sparse kind of way.
The kitchen is basically two tables against walls, with a sink at the corner. The sink has a cold water tap only (well there is no hot water here at all) and the cooker is a two ring gas burner. We have a kettle (or did, it doesn’t seem to be working at the moment!) a toaster and a water purifier. Water should not be used straight from the tap for drinking or cooking ie washing food prior to use. To use the purifier we are supposed to take water from the tap and ensure it rapid boils for a good while (I think 10 minutes – which seems a long time, you will have no water left by then!!) It then has to cool (covered) and when it is cool you put it into the top container of the purifier. The water then drips slowly through a filter into the bottom container, which has a tap on it. We can then use the water to bottle it and put it in the fridge. BUT, as the water has been on and off here quite a bit, it does come through the taps quite brown and mucky – so we decided to buy some big containers of water instead. I write this to give you some flavour of how much longer everything seems to take here, and why.However to get hot water, we must boil it. To ‘shower’ we take a bowl of hot water into the shower room (fully tiled and floor sloping to a drain) and wash ourselves with that water – and then rinse off with a cold shower (I actually rinse off with more warm water, unless it is really hot and sticky)
The beds are again hand made and chunky and we have mossie net frames above them, so you have to fight your way out of it in the middle of the night if you need the loo. Oh yes, we do have an en suite, with a shower and a bath in it, but yep, no hot water so ……
So that’s the house I think – there are three other bedrooms, not yet fully kitted out, and a back yard where we hang our washing and use the BBQ.
Donald has already mentioned about Doudi (our Askari / guard) and how we feel guilty about leaving him outside all night – we never know what to say to him when we come in of an evening. We can’t really say Good Night (lala salama) as that’s sleep well, Good Bye (Kwa Heri) is not right and so we have had to learn another phrase – usiku mwema (nice night), but that doesn’t appease the guilt.
We also have Violet who comes in three times a week and cleans for us and does the washing. (Tho I do our smalls – which is another long a drawn out task – tho not too onerous, one has to have something to do during the day doesn’t one!) She is lovely and speaks good English and is very smart and friendly.
The only other thing about our daily life here is that we are of course car less (tho Jen & Joey have said that we can use their car at any time.) We do however have a list of taxi drivers who a) speak some English b) know where we live and c) have agreed prices to get us from town to home etc and that system seems to work well. The Dala Dala’s really seem like too much hard work
So you now know more about where we live – its comfortable, clean and spacious and already feels like home.
One of the smaller luxuries I have, is that pedicures/massages etc are really cheap here – and good too – so I am off for a pedicure at a local hotel at lunchtime, and we may possibly have lunch and a swim there too – life is good. Hopefully J&J will meet us there and we can have a wedding ‘meeting’.
Love to all, and thanks for emails,Love J
Saturday, 23 February 2008
Feeling more at home
20th February, 2008
I say that, (feeling more at home) and actually do mean it. We are getting used to the pace of life here. The fact that the water and electricity are somewhat erratic doesn’t cause us too much hassle, we just use it when it is on, and so far it hasn’t been off for too long. Cold showers are good anyway when you are hot and sticky!
It was funny yesterday, after we had had our Swahili lesson with Joey, he took Donald into his placement which meant that I had a couple of hours here on my own – first time I think. So settled down with the laptop plugged in, music playing quietly from it, and got down to reading some of the papers I’d brought back from my placement (more about that later!). There was the constant sound of chickens and walking feet along the road outside our house – quite comforting sound when you get used to it – and I was getting along quite nicely. I knew there wasn’t any water as had had to wash my hair this morning from the water we’d saved from yesterday in a bucket. Then the power goes – so I thought, OK, I’d done what I could work wise, I’d sit and do my nails and read. Texted Jen to say, “hey no electricity or water now, its fun living in Africa – but no worries as I’m reading and doing my nails” (we like to keep in touch!) Her reply was “well why do you need power or water to do your nails!!” fair enough – she’s right.
I think that I am getting more used to the sounds of Africa/Mwanza. There is constant sound, but not the sort we are used to by any means. The motorway hum seems a long way off from here. We have dogs – they are particularly active at night, howling/barking/fighting, and sometimes all at the same time. When this starts I think it starts of chain of noise (like the twilight barking in 101 Dalmations) which goes all around the town – and back again!! Then we have the chickens, who do tend to be quiet at night, but they pretty quickly get going in the morning, at first light – or just before bless them. They carry on throughout the day and are joined by goats and the occasional cow. As a constant background to this, during the day, we have the slip slop of people walking along the road, chatting, or singing as they go, and then the cars and lorries trundle along too. They have to use their horns quite frequently to ensure that the goats, chickens and people get off the road to enable them to zoot past. So it is a cacophony of sound which is now becoming quite familiar.
Anyway – on to my placement. It’s day four of the first week, still very early days I know, but I fear that I still don’t actually know what they want me to do, or what I can do for them. I have some cynical thoughts that they are happy to have me – and have given me a desk in their office (which is a v small room 20ft x 12 ft) as a means to obtaining something more tangible. Part of our fee’s for volunteering go to the organisation we work with. We decide together what they need and what to spend it on, and - well maybe I should leave that thought there. I keep saying it is early days with them, and I must give them more time.
They are a group of really well meaning volunteers who try to obtain money from grants or donors. Their mission is to “be active participants in the search for lasting solutions for the severe economic and social problems which face the people in their daily lives" and so sometimes they put together some drama group which goes along to villages to put on a show to educate them about how AIDS/HIV is transmitted, or they organise workshops which are run by peer educators who they have trained.
They are volunteers who are at the office full time (Monday to Saturday morning), think they do get some expenses, if there is any money in the pot, and they all seem to do everything.
Looked at their systems (accounts/filing/etc) yesterday and we agreed that I may be able to help them a bit there. I went out and bought a new cash book and hope to be able to set them up with a system they can follow (me teaching accounts!!!!!) Anyway, we will see how today goes. Joey has said that he needs to come in with me one day next week and maybe things may be clearer after that. At least I have the greetings with them sorted now – I think!
So life is good out here – it is lovely to be around Jen and to get to know how her life is. She is very much at home here and very happy. She and Joey had their first interview with the priest yesterday. The wedding arrangements are coming on – the ceremony is now all going to be in the hotel where the party is, no church, but it is going to be conducted by the priest from Mwanza, who they both like and feel comfortable with. So that is great, Jen is so much happier about this and it seems that Joey’s family are too.
We are off to Moshi next weekend for a wedding – an Indian wedding (Joey’s best man is getting married to an Irish girl and they kindly invited us to the celebrations.) and so when we are there we hope to see both the venues and the hotels we will be staying in and get a bit more of the feel of the place. I will, of course, report back accordingly.
So had better do a quick bit of swotting on accounts before I turn up this afternoon – believe we are out with Jen & Joey again tonight – its all go!!
Love to all
Love J
PS – sorry about the emails (or lack of them) and the lack of photos on the blog – still haven’t had time to spend sorting the photo’s out, although I am getting the hang of internet café’s now, found a good (cool) quicker one just around the corner from my placement – so fingers crossed at some stage I might get it sorted.
I say that, (feeling more at home) and actually do mean it. We are getting used to the pace of life here. The fact that the water and electricity are somewhat erratic doesn’t cause us too much hassle, we just use it when it is on, and so far it hasn’t been off for too long. Cold showers are good anyway when you are hot and sticky!
It was funny yesterday, after we had had our Swahili lesson with Joey, he took Donald into his placement which meant that I had a couple of hours here on my own – first time I think. So settled down with the laptop plugged in, music playing quietly from it, and got down to reading some of the papers I’d brought back from my placement (more about that later!). There was the constant sound of chickens and walking feet along the road outside our house – quite comforting sound when you get used to it – and I was getting along quite nicely. I knew there wasn’t any water as had had to wash my hair this morning from the water we’d saved from yesterday in a bucket. Then the power goes – so I thought, OK, I’d done what I could work wise, I’d sit and do my nails and read. Texted Jen to say, “hey no electricity or water now, its fun living in Africa – but no worries as I’m reading and doing my nails” (we like to keep in touch!) Her reply was “well why do you need power or water to do your nails!!” fair enough – she’s right.
I think that I am getting more used to the sounds of Africa/Mwanza. There is constant sound, but not the sort we are used to by any means. The motorway hum seems a long way off from here. We have dogs – they are particularly active at night, howling/barking/fighting, and sometimes all at the same time. When this starts I think it starts of chain of noise (like the twilight barking in 101 Dalmations) which goes all around the town – and back again!! Then we have the chickens, who do tend to be quiet at night, but they pretty quickly get going in the morning, at first light – or just before bless them. They carry on throughout the day and are joined by goats and the occasional cow. As a constant background to this, during the day, we have the slip slop of people walking along the road, chatting, or singing as they go, and then the cars and lorries trundle along too. They have to use their horns quite frequently to ensure that the goats, chickens and people get off the road to enable them to zoot past. So it is a cacophony of sound which is now becoming quite familiar.
Anyway – on to my placement. It’s day four of the first week, still very early days I know, but I fear that I still don’t actually know what they want me to do, or what I can do for them. I have some cynical thoughts that they are happy to have me – and have given me a desk in their office (which is a v small room 20ft x 12 ft) as a means to obtaining something more tangible. Part of our fee’s for volunteering go to the organisation we work with. We decide together what they need and what to spend it on, and - well maybe I should leave that thought there. I keep saying it is early days with them, and I must give them more time.
They are a group of really well meaning volunteers who try to obtain money from grants or donors. Their mission is to “be active participants in the search for lasting solutions for the severe economic and social problems which face the people in their daily lives" and so sometimes they put together some drama group which goes along to villages to put on a show to educate them about how AIDS/HIV is transmitted, or they organise workshops which are run by peer educators who they have trained.
They are volunteers who are at the office full time (Monday to Saturday morning), think they do get some expenses, if there is any money in the pot, and they all seem to do everything.
Looked at their systems (accounts/filing/etc) yesterday and we agreed that I may be able to help them a bit there. I went out and bought a new cash book and hope to be able to set them up with a system they can follow (me teaching accounts!!!!!) Anyway, we will see how today goes. Joey has said that he needs to come in with me one day next week and maybe things may be clearer after that. At least I have the greetings with them sorted now – I think!
So life is good out here – it is lovely to be around Jen and to get to know how her life is. She is very much at home here and very happy. She and Joey had their first interview with the priest yesterday. The wedding arrangements are coming on – the ceremony is now all going to be in the hotel where the party is, no church, but it is going to be conducted by the priest from Mwanza, who they both like and feel comfortable with. So that is great, Jen is so much happier about this and it seems that Joey’s family are too.
We are off to Moshi next weekend for a wedding – an Indian wedding (Joey’s best man is getting married to an Irish girl and they kindly invited us to the celebrations.) and so when we are there we hope to see both the venues and the hotels we will be staying in and get a bit more of the feel of the place. I will, of course, report back accordingly.
So had better do a quick bit of swotting on accounts before I turn up this afternoon – believe we are out with Jen & Joey again tonight – its all go!!
Love to all
Love J
PS – sorry about the emails (or lack of them) and the lack of photos on the blog – still haven’t had time to spend sorting the photo’s out, although I am getting the hang of internet café’s now, found a good (cool) quicker one just around the corner from my placement – so fingers crossed at some stage I might get it sorted.
Letter From Mwanza - No 3
22nd February 2008
7 am on Friday, or in Swahili time, 1 o’clock in the morning. All is well in Milestone House (that’s the name Joey has given to the volunteer house). Water and electricity are behaving themselves, it is pleasantly fresh the birds are singing, and dogs seem be resting after a night’s howling. It now seems to be the turn of the chickens to let the world know they are around. Free range here is really free range – they go anywhere, but unfortunately this means they are rather straggly and thin, a sort of antidote to battery farming.
Jane and I are now well into our projects. I say well in, in the loser sense, as both us need to get a closer handle on exactly what gets done in our placements, and more importantly what we can do to help. I think Mwanza Samaritans is more transparent than Jane’s place. Mwanza Samaritans Association (MSA) has been going since 2000, and was set up to help orphans, widows and the elderly in its local area. So far its main work has been with orphans. Orphans describe those children who have lost one or both parents, and often a child that has lost a parent is helped by their grand parents or other relations, but HIV/AIDS has made this much harder. It seems the single parents, perhaps suffering with HIV themselves are finding it more and more difficult to bring up their children alone. MSA offers some orphans the chance to go to a place very day during the week, get a decent meal, have a matron on hand to look after them, and get some medical help if required. The scale of the problem is huge – MSA takes in those under 6 years of age who only need to travel under 1km, and mostly just half a km away. This week some 25 children are in the centre, and Moshye Constantine, who runs the centre, would like to increase this to 50, and believes in his ward alone there are some 392 orphans under 6 who need help. Those over 6 yrs MSA would like to support through schooling, and require longer term emotional support. It is very hard on them that financially this just isn’t possible to do for most. I will talk more about this part later as we start to get into this area in more detail next week. The education side is a source of funding which could be developed further.
So in less than a week we have come across the problem I (and probably you) have wrestled with for many years. Is it worth it? Is tinkering at the edge going to make any real, significant and long-term difference on the lives of those who, in a material sense at least, have so much less than others.
I met Jane in town yesterday afternoon. Incidentally we have tried walking into town, have been on a Dala Dala (sort of crowded mini-bus); but the favourite seems to be taxis, whose pricing seems to reflect our desire to use them. We started at circa 4,000 Tz shillings (approx £2) and now after less than two weeks, we are paying 7,000 Tz shillings!!! Passing on the increase in world oil prices seems to happen very quickly in our case. Anyway, I went off when Jane went into her office (she has her own desk!!) and picked up my hand made ‘made to measure’ Kaunda suit, (for which I need to change much of my body to feel comfortable in), went to the bank, Barclays have just opened a new branch here (can’t get away from them), and bought Jane a wallet and meandered around town. We seem to be finding our way around now, and for some reason always get back to the same junction. It has a clock, is very dangerous for cars to cross, and seems to have some sort of magnetic attraction.
We had an interesting conversation with a young man selling hand painted cards. When approached by street sellers we now come up with the expression we find most comfortable, “sio leo” (not today). It makes us feel better than struggling to say no by any other way and leaves the option open that we could buy something at a future date. However when we said “sio leo” to this chap, he raised the valid point about what contribution we “muzungu’s” are making. From his view-point, he has seen many white faces driving around in large white cars for many years, and in the greater scheme of things, nothing much has changed. Well that’s the gist of his thoughts, and I have a deal of sympathy with his sentiments. Perhaps that is another thing we will come back to that later. In the meantime, I felt so bad I bought two of his cards to go with the two I had bought previously.
We have managed to curb Joey’s enthusiasm for trying to get us to communicate in Kiswahili until 10 am today, and then it’s off to our placements.
Thus endeth the first week as a volunteer.
Kwa heri for now - Donald
7 am on Friday, or in Swahili time, 1 o’clock in the morning. All is well in Milestone House (that’s the name Joey has given to the volunteer house). Water and electricity are behaving themselves, it is pleasantly fresh the birds are singing, and dogs seem be resting after a night’s howling. It now seems to be the turn of the chickens to let the world know they are around. Free range here is really free range – they go anywhere, but unfortunately this means they are rather straggly and thin, a sort of antidote to battery farming.
Jane and I are now well into our projects. I say well in, in the loser sense, as both us need to get a closer handle on exactly what gets done in our placements, and more importantly what we can do to help. I think Mwanza Samaritans is more transparent than Jane’s place. Mwanza Samaritans Association (MSA) has been going since 2000, and was set up to help orphans, widows and the elderly in its local area. So far its main work has been with orphans. Orphans describe those children who have lost one or both parents, and often a child that has lost a parent is helped by their grand parents or other relations, but HIV/AIDS has made this much harder. It seems the single parents, perhaps suffering with HIV themselves are finding it more and more difficult to bring up their children alone. MSA offers some orphans the chance to go to a place very day during the week, get a decent meal, have a matron on hand to look after them, and get some medical help if required. The scale of the problem is huge – MSA takes in those under 6 years of age who only need to travel under 1km, and mostly just half a km away. This week some 25 children are in the centre, and Moshye Constantine, who runs the centre, would like to increase this to 50, and believes in his ward alone there are some 392 orphans under 6 who need help. Those over 6 yrs MSA would like to support through schooling, and require longer term emotional support. It is very hard on them that financially this just isn’t possible to do for most. I will talk more about this part later as we start to get into this area in more detail next week. The education side is a source of funding which could be developed further.
So in less than a week we have come across the problem I (and probably you) have wrestled with for many years. Is it worth it? Is tinkering at the edge going to make any real, significant and long-term difference on the lives of those who, in a material sense at least, have so much less than others.
I met Jane in town yesterday afternoon. Incidentally we have tried walking into town, have been on a Dala Dala (sort of crowded mini-bus); but the favourite seems to be taxis, whose pricing seems to reflect our desire to use them. We started at circa 4,000 Tz shillings (approx £2) and now after less than two weeks, we are paying 7,000 Tz shillings!!! Passing on the increase in world oil prices seems to happen very quickly in our case. Anyway, I went off when Jane went into her office (she has her own desk!!) and picked up my hand made ‘made to measure’ Kaunda suit, (for which I need to change much of my body to feel comfortable in), went to the bank, Barclays have just opened a new branch here (can’t get away from them), and bought Jane a wallet and meandered around town. We seem to be finding our way around now, and for some reason always get back to the same junction. It has a clock, is very dangerous for cars to cross, and seems to have some sort of magnetic attraction.
We had an interesting conversation with a young man selling hand painted cards. When approached by street sellers we now come up with the expression we find most comfortable, “sio leo” (not today). It makes us feel better than struggling to say no by any other way and leaves the option open that we could buy something at a future date. However when we said “sio leo” to this chap, he raised the valid point about what contribution we “muzungu’s” are making. From his view-point, he has seen many white faces driving around in large white cars for many years, and in the greater scheme of things, nothing much has changed. Well that’s the gist of his thoughts, and I have a deal of sympathy with his sentiments. Perhaps that is another thing we will come back to that later. In the meantime, I felt so bad I bought two of his cards to go with the two I had bought previously.
We have managed to curb Joey’s enthusiasm for trying to get us to communicate in Kiswahili until 10 am today, and then it’s off to our placements.
Thus endeth the first week as a volunteer.
Kwa heri for now - Donald
Wednesday, 20 February 2008
We're Off and running (pole pole - slowly!)
18th Feb 08 – The start of volunteering
Today we started our volunteering. Joey arrived at MH at 9am and we signed all necessary papers, we had already been given our ID cards. We then sat down outside our place and had our first Swahili lesson. Now I am really NOT good with languages and I have to say that this part of the volunteering has scared me quite a bit. We did numbers and greetings – Donald and I ended up giggling as we were getting things so wrong, but Joey persevered and even carried on with the lessons when he took us to the market later.
After an hour of language lessons we headed off to see our placements and meet some of the people. First we went to Mwanza Samaritans, which is just up the road from home. We had already met Moshi who is the Director there and he was very pleased to welcome us again. He showed us around their place, which seemingly hopes to have up to 300 kids come to them for lessons, and then some of the money received from this teaching is used to assist the widows and orphans they help. SAIDIA had spent some time there last year and managed to get a whole load of guys along to help them ‘up grade’ the class room by creating divides so that the pupils can be taught in small groups dependent on their needs. No doubt you will hear more about this when Donald gets more involved. We were only there for half an hour – tomorrow we go and spend a bit more time with them (and my placement) to see if we can actually work out what their expectations are.
We then went on to TACOPE which is my placement. This is just an office and I thought it was more like BVS (Basingstoke Voluntary Services) and was an umbrella organisation for other groups who work in different areas. Not sure I have that right – but their main objectives are to become active participants in the search for lasting solutions for the severe economic and social problems which face this country in their daily life. Speaking to Mr Messo there – he said that their main areas are work are combating, poverty, health, AIDS/HIV and education. (Well what will I do in week three?!!!) I joke, but its all a bit daunting at the moment.
Again, tomorrow (kesho), we hope to get a bit more of an idea of what they are expecting from me, and then work on that.
Something which has already come out is that we must remember that we are in Africa, and things take longer (even longer than that if it rains!) We can’t work at UK pace – it just doesn’t happen here. This we already know from the internet speed, and just buying something in a shop takes time. Cooking a meal at Milestone House (home) is another example. Only boiled and purified water can be used to wash stuff – that in itself is a chore, but getting the hang of it. Only have two gas rings – no oven – but seem to have managed to cook a couple of nice meals so far – it just takes longer.
We went along to the market to buy our food, best to buy fresh stuff, and Joey insisted that we try to do it ourselves (quite right!) but we kept getting it wrong and giggling. The Tanzanians are so nice tho, they try to help us, they speak English better than my Swahili will ever be, and there is no aggression there at all. There are very few white guys (mzungu’s) in Mwanza so we do stick about a bit. Anyway, we managed to buy food for tonight, Talapia (the local fish from the lake – very boney but tastey) and salad. We are planning to try to BBQ the fish so had to buy all that stuff too. The hardware store in the market is amazing. Everything is made there, knocked up out of sheets of metal or blocks of wood, piled up so high that just a puff of wind would knock the lot down, but somehow it all stays there, and, they know where everything is! It was an experience – one which is to be repeated often by the sound of it, probably three times a week. Donald said that we won’t have time to volunteer as the shopping takes us so long! He’s right!
The meal was good but just took a couple of hours to prepare – sat later and watched a DVD on my laptop – so all pretty cosy.
Tuesday 19th Feb
Another Swahili lesson at 9am – we did times and food this time. Well as some of you know, I am not exactly known for my understanding of the 24 hour clock. Swahili time is something else tho. (see if I can get this right) Daylight comes at 6am every morning – we are so near the equator – so that means that the timing starts from then. So – (wait for it!) 7 o’clock is 1 o’clock, 8 is 2, 9 is 3, etc etc. A way of knowing/checking, is that the time in Swahili is exactly on the opposite side of the clock face – I think its just something else to trip us up. So when we make an arrangement re time, first we have to get the time right and then translate it into Swahili – a challenge or what!!!
After our lesson this morning, Joey showed us how to us the public transport here. The buses are called Dalla Dalla’s and are basically beaten up, clapped out and abused mini busses which have 7 extra seats put into them and they do set routes. Joey said the one good thing about these dalla dalla’s in Mwanza is that they don’t speed – well that’s the only good thing about them. Oh they are cheap tho. Not only are all the seats usually taken but every inch of space inbetween and standing too. So we took a dalla dalla into town to visit my placement again.
Met up with my co-worker with TACOPE is a young guy called Terry and he was there to meet me, as well as Mr Messo (who I met yesterday briefly). Another guy was there too, and he is the co-ordinator there, so we sat and had a chat about what they expect from me and what I can do for them. Still confused, but hopefully tomorrow when I meet up with them again, I may have a bit more of a handle on it. My placement is in town, so easy to walk in for lunch, or hopefully, meet Jen for lunch – which would be lovely!
Donald and I then had a quick lunch in town and took a taxi to his placement. Whilst he was chatting to Moshi from Samaritans, I tried to put some questions together to ask my placement tomorrow, and then did some Swahili (or tried)
A chap came into the Sam’s office and greeted me – I knew what he said, (Habari za mchama – good afternoon) I understood it, and I knew what to reply (Mzuri sana – fine thank you) – BUT – what did I say “jambo!!!” (hello) This was not the right thing to say really but I just froze!) pathetic or what!! Maybe time will help – time and practise.
So – as Sam’s office is not far from us/home we decided to walk back, stopping off for a drink of water at a hotel on the way. Arranged to meet up with Jen & Joey tonight at a local eatery, and just sat now with G&T (well deserved I think!) – its all good fun (honest)
Today we started our volunteering. Joey arrived at MH at 9am and we signed all necessary papers, we had already been given our ID cards. We then sat down outside our place and had our first Swahili lesson. Now I am really NOT good with languages and I have to say that this part of the volunteering has scared me quite a bit. We did numbers and greetings – Donald and I ended up giggling as we were getting things so wrong, but Joey persevered and even carried on with the lessons when he took us to the market later.
After an hour of language lessons we headed off to see our placements and meet some of the people. First we went to Mwanza Samaritans, which is just up the road from home. We had already met Moshi who is the Director there and he was very pleased to welcome us again. He showed us around their place, which seemingly hopes to have up to 300 kids come to them for lessons, and then some of the money received from this teaching is used to assist the widows and orphans they help. SAIDIA had spent some time there last year and managed to get a whole load of guys along to help them ‘up grade’ the class room by creating divides so that the pupils can be taught in small groups dependent on their needs. No doubt you will hear more about this when Donald gets more involved. We were only there for half an hour – tomorrow we go and spend a bit more time with them (and my placement) to see if we can actually work out what their expectations are.
We then went on to TACOPE which is my placement. This is just an office and I thought it was more like BVS (Basingstoke Voluntary Services) and was an umbrella organisation for other groups who work in different areas. Not sure I have that right – but their main objectives are to become active participants in the search for lasting solutions for the severe economic and social problems which face this country in their daily life. Speaking to Mr Messo there – he said that their main areas are work are combating, poverty, health, AIDS/HIV and education. (Well what will I do in week three?!!!) I joke, but its all a bit daunting at the moment.
Again, tomorrow (kesho), we hope to get a bit more of an idea of what they are expecting from me, and then work on that.
Something which has already come out is that we must remember that we are in Africa, and things take longer (even longer than that if it rains!) We can’t work at UK pace – it just doesn’t happen here. This we already know from the internet speed, and just buying something in a shop takes time. Cooking a meal at Milestone House (home) is another example. Only boiled and purified water can be used to wash stuff – that in itself is a chore, but getting the hang of it. Only have two gas rings – no oven – but seem to have managed to cook a couple of nice meals so far – it just takes longer.
We went along to the market to buy our food, best to buy fresh stuff, and Joey insisted that we try to do it ourselves (quite right!) but we kept getting it wrong and giggling. The Tanzanians are so nice tho, they try to help us, they speak English better than my Swahili will ever be, and there is no aggression there at all. There are very few white guys (mzungu’s) in Mwanza so we do stick about a bit. Anyway, we managed to buy food for tonight, Talapia (the local fish from the lake – very boney but tastey) and salad. We are planning to try to BBQ the fish so had to buy all that stuff too. The hardware store in the market is amazing. Everything is made there, knocked up out of sheets of metal or blocks of wood, piled up so high that just a puff of wind would knock the lot down, but somehow it all stays there, and, they know where everything is! It was an experience – one which is to be repeated often by the sound of it, probably three times a week. Donald said that we won’t have time to volunteer as the shopping takes us so long! He’s right!
The meal was good but just took a couple of hours to prepare – sat later and watched a DVD on my laptop – so all pretty cosy.
Tuesday 19th Feb
Another Swahili lesson at 9am – we did times and food this time. Well as some of you know, I am not exactly known for my understanding of the 24 hour clock. Swahili time is something else tho. (see if I can get this right) Daylight comes at 6am every morning – we are so near the equator – so that means that the timing starts from then. So – (wait for it!) 7 o’clock is 1 o’clock, 8 is 2, 9 is 3, etc etc. A way of knowing/checking, is that the time in Swahili is exactly on the opposite side of the clock face – I think its just something else to trip us up. So when we make an arrangement re time, first we have to get the time right and then translate it into Swahili – a challenge or what!!!
After our lesson this morning, Joey showed us how to us the public transport here. The buses are called Dalla Dalla’s and are basically beaten up, clapped out and abused mini busses which have 7 extra seats put into them and they do set routes. Joey said the one good thing about these dalla dalla’s in Mwanza is that they don’t speed – well that’s the only good thing about them. Oh they are cheap tho. Not only are all the seats usually taken but every inch of space inbetween and standing too. So we took a dalla dalla into town to visit my placement again.
Met up with my co-worker with TACOPE is a young guy called Terry and he was there to meet me, as well as Mr Messo (who I met yesterday briefly). Another guy was there too, and he is the co-ordinator there, so we sat and had a chat about what they expect from me and what I can do for them. Still confused, but hopefully tomorrow when I meet up with them again, I may have a bit more of a handle on it. My placement is in town, so easy to walk in for lunch, or hopefully, meet Jen for lunch – which would be lovely!
Donald and I then had a quick lunch in town and took a taxi to his placement. Whilst he was chatting to Moshi from Samaritans, I tried to put some questions together to ask my placement tomorrow, and then did some Swahili (or tried)
A chap came into the Sam’s office and greeted me – I knew what he said, (Habari za mchama – good afternoon) I understood it, and I knew what to reply (Mzuri sana – fine thank you) – BUT – what did I say “jambo!!!” (hello) This was not the right thing to say really but I just froze!) pathetic or what!! Maybe time will help – time and practise.
So – as Sam’s office is not far from us/home we decided to walk back, stopping off for a drink of water at a hotel on the way. Arranged to meet up with Jen & Joey tonight at a local eatery, and just sat now with G&T (well deserved I think!) – its all good fun (honest)
Monday, 18 February 2008
Letter from Mwanza – No 2
Jane and I did our first walk into Mwanza – it took us about an hour, so we figure it could be about 3 – 4 miles distance. What struck me was how much human activity there is on roads here (and in Africa generally). Of course there are lots of cars, dala dalla’s (mini busses) bicycles, buses and lorries; but also they are the arterial routes for people walking, pushing and pulling things and selling goods. The choking fumes of the speeding vehicles don’t seem to inhibit the ant-like movement of the people, sometimes with their goats and cows.
We still haven’t negotiated how many cows and goats we got for Jenny!!
Smartly dressed children move into and out of class. In many cases the school buildings are used twice a day for separate school groups. Markets are set up at the side of the road moving into the hinterland depending on how large they are – shoes neatly laid out, piles of belts and clothes are piled in a colourful mosaic. We meandered along and followed a couple of Masai chaps (or tried to) how is it they walk so fast so early?
Most of the walk was on (or should I say beside) the main road from Mwanza to its airport, so like most places on earth it will be tarmaced and made to look good for any dignitaries who visit the area. However, only so much can be done and afforded and for 99% of the time when no one of political importance arrives, the road is for us all. What struck me was the diversity of buildings (and activities) that line the route. Smart villa like houses juxtapose with shanty like dwellings, large churches sit rather grandly next to small missionaries. Hotels can be smart 50 bedroom establishments with restaurant and bars or a one-roomed hut, and all are passed by on this road. Is this a sign of social cohesion where all can co-habit and co-exist side by side whatever wealth, status, religion, or other distinguishing features?
However some of these buildings lock themselves up (like the one we are living in) with Askaries (guards) and often dogs to protect themselves from the outside? Is it, like in any society, where a few bad apples will always try and take advantage, or is it necessary because there is such a divide between the “haves” and the “have not’”? Perhaps we can probe into this further later. What is apparent is that people of all types are thrown together closely, and it is very difficult for people to cut themselves off from the realities of living. What we all do about this is another question. It certainly feels uncomfortable that our Masai Askari sits all night on a plastic chair watching the locked gate, whilst we sleep inside our locked up house.
We start our induction tomorrow (18th Feb) at 9am, but we got a taste of some of the realities we will face when Joey took us on the way back from our luxury weekend in the Serengeti, to an orphanage he is working with. He, together with one of his volunteers, had built (but still not finished) some further rooms and a kitchen for them. As we were passing Joey had bought some rice, biscuits and washing powder for them. This was fortuitous, as today they had no money left to buy food for the 25 or so children there. Some donors in Mwanza have set it up, and various people have raised money for it at different times. The big and difficult question is how can funds and organisation be consistently given or earned over a long enough time scale. The setting up is one thing, but the effective running is another. This seems to be a microcosm of so much of Africa. Overseas aid, loans, self-sustainability, economic co-operation, industrialisation, charity, governmental and business efficiency and so many more words are the ingredients needed to make up the ‘fruit salad’ we call Africa. Unfortunately the dish has been and is often spoiled with the sour cream of corruption, greed and foreign self- interest.
What a shame the Arusha Declaration of 1967 and the development of Julius Nyerere’s Ujamaa (a form of socialism which roughly translated means “family hood”) concept didn’t or couldn’t work – perhaps more about that later when I get a clearer view of the best ingredients in the next month or so.
Kea heri for now - Donald
We still haven’t negotiated how many cows and goats we got for Jenny!!
Smartly dressed children move into and out of class. In many cases the school buildings are used twice a day for separate school groups. Markets are set up at the side of the road moving into the hinterland depending on how large they are – shoes neatly laid out, piles of belts and clothes are piled in a colourful mosaic. We meandered along and followed a couple of Masai chaps (or tried to) how is it they walk so fast so early?
Most of the walk was on (or should I say beside) the main road from Mwanza to its airport, so like most places on earth it will be tarmaced and made to look good for any dignitaries who visit the area. However, only so much can be done and afforded and for 99% of the time when no one of political importance arrives, the road is for us all. What struck me was the diversity of buildings (and activities) that line the route. Smart villa like houses juxtapose with shanty like dwellings, large churches sit rather grandly next to small missionaries. Hotels can be smart 50 bedroom establishments with restaurant and bars or a one-roomed hut, and all are passed by on this road. Is this a sign of social cohesion where all can co-habit and co-exist side by side whatever wealth, status, religion, or other distinguishing features?
However some of these buildings lock themselves up (like the one we are living in) with Askaries (guards) and often dogs to protect themselves from the outside? Is it, like in any society, where a few bad apples will always try and take advantage, or is it necessary because there is such a divide between the “haves” and the “have not’”? Perhaps we can probe into this further later. What is apparent is that people of all types are thrown together closely, and it is very difficult for people to cut themselves off from the realities of living. What we all do about this is another question. It certainly feels uncomfortable that our Masai Askari sits all night on a plastic chair watching the locked gate, whilst we sleep inside our locked up house.
We start our induction tomorrow (18th Feb) at 9am, but we got a taste of some of the realities we will face when Joey took us on the way back from our luxury weekend in the Serengeti, to an orphanage he is working with. He, together with one of his volunteers, had built (but still not finished) some further rooms and a kitchen for them. As we were passing Joey had bought some rice, biscuits and washing powder for them. This was fortuitous, as today they had no money left to buy food for the 25 or so children there. Some donors in Mwanza have set it up, and various people have raised money for it at different times. The big and difficult question is how can funds and organisation be consistently given or earned over a long enough time scale. The setting up is one thing, but the effective running is another. This seems to be a microcosm of so much of Africa. Overseas aid, loans, self-sustainability, economic co-operation, industrialisation, charity, governmental and business efficiency and so many more words are the ingredients needed to make up the ‘fruit salad’ we call Africa. Unfortunately the dish has been and is often spoiled with the sour cream of corruption, greed and foreign self- interest.
What a shame the Arusha Declaration of 1967 and the development of Julius Nyerere’s Ujamaa (a form of socialism which roughly translated means “family hood”) concept didn’t or couldn’t work – perhaps more about that later when I get a clearer view of the best ingredients in the next month or so.
Kea heri for now - Donald
Safari & Jen's birthday
15th February, 2008
This weekend was all a big surprise for Jenny – Joey had organised it as it was her birthday. We set off in a hired car (a 4 x 4 big one! – Joey loved driving it) and headed towards The Serengeti (about 2 hours away from Mwanza) – we were heading to a luxury lodge which they hadn’t stayed at before, but on our way we did a bit of game spotting – and – before we even knew it we saw lions! Usually the BIG one is left till the last by the tour guides, but Jen spotted them right next to the road just sat. We stopped and watched them for ages – usually there are loads of other vehicles around lions, but we were on our own. There were 2 females really close, one a bit further away and a big daddy with another female sat under a tree not too far away, and then another male turned up behind us and flopped under the next tree. We were sooooo close to them it was wonderful – in fact one of them gave Jen a telling off growl when she hung out of the roof to take another photo – Ok we said and left. A bit scary but amazing to be so close to them.
Saw lots of other game on the way to the lodge, which was beautiful – it was placed high on a hill and the view from the restaurant/bar area was just stunning – hopefully photo’s will give a bit of a feel of it. Our rooms were a bit of a walk from the main part of the lodge and when it was dark we had to be escorted by Masai to our rooms – as we were still in the park. But they had great internet facilities, so caught up with some emails and updated the Blog – crazy isn’t it – in the middle of the Serengeti Park the internet facilities are better than in Mwanza, which is a City by the way.
16th Feb – Jens birthday
We were woken at 4.30 and escorted to our car (still dark!) and we followed a guide who drove us to the Hot Air Balloon launch site – Jen was thrilled and really excited when she got there. It was a huge balloon – held 12 of us in the basket and we had a really wonderful hours flight.
We flew just skimming the trees following the river – spotting crocs and hippo’s and looking down on vultures nests, it was awesome! We then went higher and it felt as if we could see the whole of the Serengeti – such space.
After a very smooth landing we were met by the balloon ground crew with bottles of champagne and then taken on a 5 minute drive to a safari breakfast – a beautifully laid out table, under the shade of a tree – breakfast was cooking and there was a loo with a view there too. Magic – so Happy Birthday Jen! I remember how I spent my 30th (having Dan) so think she will remember hers too.
We had to leave the park by 1 so headed towards the gate – game spotting as we went, and arrived at Speke Bay Lodge, which is lovely place just at the edge of the park by the gate on the edge of the lake. We have stayed there before (and hopefully will again) and it was really great. Sat looking at the lake – which could be mistaken for a sea (it is 250 miles long!!) But unfortunately not swimable in –however the lap of the waves and the breeze were lovely to sit by and have a sun downer!
On Sunday we woke to rain, which was a shame as we had planned to breakfast on the terrace, just had to shift the table into the room, still had a lake view. We then went to visit one of the projects which SAIDIA is working on before – think Donald has mentioned that so I will leave that to him.
Now back “home” – and it feels good. Got Neil Diamond playing and a glass by my side (water!!!) and we plan to watch a DVD tonight. Dress fittings tomorrow lunch time. Tomorrow we start our volunteering. Joey is coming around to start our SAIDIA programme with a weeks induction, language and cultural sessions. Think we start with our placements on the following Monday – so watch this space.
This weekend was all a big surprise for Jenny – Joey had organised it as it was her birthday. We set off in a hired car (a 4 x 4 big one! – Joey loved driving it) and headed towards The Serengeti (about 2 hours away from Mwanza) – we were heading to a luxury lodge which they hadn’t stayed at before, but on our way we did a bit of game spotting – and – before we even knew it we saw lions! Usually the BIG one is left till the last by the tour guides, but Jen spotted them right next to the road just sat. We stopped and watched them for ages – usually there are loads of other vehicles around lions, but we were on our own. There were 2 females really close, one a bit further away and a big daddy with another female sat under a tree not too far away, and then another male turned up behind us and flopped under the next tree. We were sooooo close to them it was wonderful – in fact one of them gave Jen a telling off growl when she hung out of the roof to take another photo – Ok we said and left. A bit scary but amazing to be so close to them.
Saw lots of other game on the way to the lodge, which was beautiful – it was placed high on a hill and the view from the restaurant/bar area was just stunning – hopefully photo’s will give a bit of a feel of it. Our rooms were a bit of a walk from the main part of the lodge and when it was dark we had to be escorted by Masai to our rooms – as we were still in the park. But they had great internet facilities, so caught up with some emails and updated the Blog – crazy isn’t it – in the middle of the Serengeti Park the internet facilities are better than in Mwanza, which is a City by the way.
16th Feb – Jens birthday
We were woken at 4.30 and escorted to our car (still dark!) and we followed a guide who drove us to the Hot Air Balloon launch site – Jen was thrilled and really excited when she got there. It was a huge balloon – held 12 of us in the basket and we had a really wonderful hours flight.
We flew just skimming the trees following the river – spotting crocs and hippo’s and looking down on vultures nests, it was awesome! We then went higher and it felt as if we could see the whole of the Serengeti – such space.
After a very smooth landing we were met by the balloon ground crew with bottles of champagne and then taken on a 5 minute drive to a safari breakfast – a beautifully laid out table, under the shade of a tree – breakfast was cooking and there was a loo with a view there too. Magic – so Happy Birthday Jen! I remember how I spent my 30th (having Dan) so think she will remember hers too.
We had to leave the park by 1 so headed towards the gate – game spotting as we went, and arrived at Speke Bay Lodge, which is lovely place just at the edge of the park by the gate on the edge of the lake. We have stayed there before (and hopefully will again) and it was really great. Sat looking at the lake – which could be mistaken for a sea (it is 250 miles long!!) But unfortunately not swimable in –however the lap of the waves and the breeze were lovely to sit by and have a sun downer!
On Sunday we woke to rain, which was a shame as we had planned to breakfast on the terrace, just had to shift the table into the room, still had a lake view. We then went to visit one of the projects which SAIDIA is working on before – think Donald has mentioned that so I will leave that to him.
Now back “home” – and it feels good. Got Neil Diamond playing and a glass by my side (water!!!) and we plan to watch a DVD tonight. Dress fittings tomorrow lunch time. Tomorrow we start our volunteering. Joey is coming around to start our SAIDIA programme with a weeks induction, language and cultural sessions. Think we start with our placements on the following Monday – so watch this space.
Friday, 15 February 2008
Dress fittings & more
Tuesday 12th February
Jen and I went along to the dress maker this morning, with THE dress we brought over with us and to discuss the making of the other dress and of my outfit too. We ended up going into town to visit material shops and then back to her house to talk it though again
Jen and I managed to get slightly side tracked by ordering an outfit each for a wedding we are going to in Moshi on the 1st March (Saga & Ruth’ – he is Joey’s best man) What fun!
Some 3 hours later we left to walk into town to meet the guys for a late lunch. We still hadn’t gotten as far as measurements yet – that happens at our next visit, which is next Monday.
Lunch by the way was brill – a road side "café" called The Mwanza Institute, grilled tilapia and chips – eaten with fingers and very tasty! Cooked by the road too!
I was then allowed to go for a pedicure (lovely!) and various shopping was done for MH. We ended up having a drink at The Yacht Club (very grandly named) which is also the place where Jen & Joey play squash. Right on the lake. Ate later (having done some odd jobs around MH on our return, like putting up some curtains and stopping rain dripping noisily outside our bedroom window) at a new hotel some 20 mins walk from us. Lovely evening.
Thursday 14th February
Woke to no water (we have no hot water anyway!!!) so this was somewhat inconvenient – however undaunted – we breakfasted and then we headed off to walk into town. It took us just over an hour – so not bad – and then tried to catch up with emails at the internet café (Donald a bit upset as he thought the café word meant there would be drinks there – not so in Mwanza!)
Very frustrating!!! – we complain at home about the speed of broadband – well believe me that’s nothing. We paid for 30 minutes (40p) but hadn’t got through to Wanadoo/Orange before that time was up – so David H, "Quit complaining!!"
Also don’t think the photo’s I tried to put in my last entry worked – so apologies, will try again when I can – not this time.
Got back at 3ish and still no water – so we plan to meet up with Jen & Joey at the Yaght Club, they can play a game of squash (Donald threatening to play too!!!) we will then go back to theirs for a shower and change – before setting off for a Valentines Do at KK’s – the restaurant/bar I have talked about which is run by women who have had to leave their homes for various reasons.
Oh – went into a shop today to look for something, and the guy serving looked at me and said "you look familiar" – He recognised me as Jen’s mum!! It’s a shop that they use quite a bit, so that was funny (and nice!)
Tomorrow we are off – Jen’s birthday on Saturday and Joey has arranged a surprise for her – so watch this space!
Jen and I went along to the dress maker this morning, with THE dress we brought over with us and to discuss the making of the other dress and of my outfit too. We ended up going into town to visit material shops and then back to her house to talk it though again
Jen and I managed to get slightly side tracked by ordering an outfit each for a wedding we are going to in Moshi on the 1st March (Saga & Ruth’ – he is Joey’s best man) What fun!
Some 3 hours later we left to walk into town to meet the guys for a late lunch. We still hadn’t gotten as far as measurements yet – that happens at our next visit, which is next Monday.
Lunch by the way was brill – a road side "café" called The Mwanza Institute, grilled tilapia and chips – eaten with fingers and very tasty! Cooked by the road too!
I was then allowed to go for a pedicure (lovely!) and various shopping was done for MH. We ended up having a drink at The Yacht Club (very grandly named) which is also the place where Jen & Joey play squash. Right on the lake. Ate later (having done some odd jobs around MH on our return, like putting up some curtains and stopping rain dripping noisily outside our bedroom window) at a new hotel some 20 mins walk from us. Lovely evening.
Thursday 14th February
Woke to no water (we have no hot water anyway!!!) so this was somewhat inconvenient – however undaunted – we breakfasted and then we headed off to walk into town. It took us just over an hour – so not bad – and then tried to catch up with emails at the internet café (Donald a bit upset as he thought the café word meant there would be drinks there – not so in Mwanza!)
Very frustrating!!! – we complain at home about the speed of broadband – well believe me that’s nothing. We paid for 30 minutes (40p) but hadn’t got through to Wanadoo/Orange before that time was up – so David H, "Quit complaining!!"
Also don’t think the photo’s I tried to put in my last entry worked – so apologies, will try again when I can – not this time.
Got back at 3ish and still no water – so we plan to meet up with Jen & Joey at the Yaght Club, they can play a game of squash (Donald threatening to play too!!!) we will then go back to theirs for a shower and change – before setting off for a Valentines Do at KK’s – the restaurant/bar I have talked about which is run by women who have had to leave their homes for various reasons.
Oh – went into a shop today to look for something, and the guy serving looked at me and said "you look familiar" – He recognised me as Jen’s mum!! It’s a shop that they use quite a bit, so that was funny (and nice!)
Tomorrow we are off – Jen’s birthday on Saturday and Joey has arranged a surprise for her – so watch this space!
Tuesday, 12 February 2008
"letter from Tanzania - No 1"
12.2.08
Although I haven’t discussed it with Jane it seems sensible we don’t overlap too much on the blogging – so I will stick to my thoughts on cultural, social and political activities with a bit about my experiences with Mwanza Samaritans later.
So …. Arrival in
It seems ‘The Government’ some 2 years ago reached an agreement with a company called Richmond Development Company to provide a 100 mega watt power supply to the country to alleviate its dire electrical supply problems. At the end of last year there were suspicions that this tender for some £80m of equipment and installation was outside regulations set up by the country’s procurement laws. A Dr Harrison Mwakyembe was appointed to chair a parliamentary select committee to look into this affair and its report came out a few days ago. Its findings and recommendations were devastating. The deal was found to be bogus,
Kwa heri for now - Donald
Arrival in Tanzania and meeting the family
We landed in a very hot and stick
We then met up with some of Joey’s family – sisters
Eventually (long and boring story about Precision Air and their reliability!!!) but we did arrive at Kilimanjaro airport to be collected by a very excited Jenny, Joey and Saga (Joey’s best man – who already seemed to be executing his best man’s duties!!) - oh and forgot to say that we managed to get the Wedding dress their too!!! (phew almost there with it!)
When we arrived at Honey Badger (Joey’s family home and cultural lodge and camp site) and were greeted most warmly by Peter and Lucy. We seemed to get on really well straight away and had a lovely late evening drink and chat.
Family Greetings
Without seeing or realising what was happening – a function was prepared. The cooking was going on in the back yard by a team of caterers brought in for the purpose. The walls were covered with white cloth and blue balloons and an awning appeared over the lawn area – and suddenly we were in a party. It was supposed to start at 12 – at 2ish people started to wander in – everyone came to shake our hand and welcome us (Jen and Joey were not supposed to be with us at that time, they were supposed to come in later – but Jen said that would mean that they miss everything, and so that tradition lapsed!)
Eventually – when the food was ready (all looking and smelling fabulous!) all seem to have arrived. The buffet was open and we all ate well – it was lovely food. Peter then stood and did the formal introductions – in Swahili. He welcomed everyone individually and they stood up and greeted us. Jenny and Lucy were translating for Donald and I. There was then some talk about goats – and I said to Lucy, surely he means cows, as they were obviously talking about the bride price. There was lots of laughter when that was translated back to Peter. Martha had told us in Dar that Jenny was worth a lot of cows!
Arrival in Mwanza 11th February, 2008
Precision Air worked well for us today (poor Joey had a full day at the airport yesterday!!!) and we landed in Mwanza on time at
Once Joey had arrived and we had caught up – they took us to our new home. “Milestone House” (MH) See photo’s (I hope!!) Its great – very spacious, clean and well kitted out (again African style – in fact always assume I mean that, unless I state its not). They had even put labels on doors, chairs, tables etc showing the English word and the Swahili word – flash cards! No hot water, but that’s ok (there isn’t any at the hut either!)
We unpacked and oriented ourselves whilst J&J got some food it – they then cooked us a meal and which we enjoyed with them and a couple of glasses of wine. They then showed us some of the tricks of living at MH – ie how the loo works and how to shower - using a bowl of hot water (maji) from the stove (jiko) which is in the kitchen (jikoni).
So here we are !!!! I am now sat at the desk in MH with a cup of tea – its Tuesday 12th and we have decided to start our volunteering on the Monday (18th). Today Jen and I have dress fittings and the boys are going to sort out suits. We need to get a couple of things for MH and get to know Mwanza.
Wednesday, 6 February 2008
We're off tomorrow!!!
One day to go before the off, so suppose we ought to start packing. The piles of clothes, books, toiletries, shoes etc have been growing for so long and now its testing time - will they fit into the bags!?
The wedding dress is packed as hand luggage - so thats OK, but the rest just doesn't seem to fit into the bags we had hoped to use - so - lets try again!!! We've sent some books off by mail, in the hope that they arrive sometime when we are there which has helped a bit (not much tho).
Either way, we WILL be packed and ready for the off tomorrow. The plan is that we fly to Dar and arrive there early Friday morning. Hopefully we will be met by a driver who is taking us to a hotel where we can relax before our next flight which is later in the day. We should arrive at Moshi to be met by Jenny and Joey late afternoon and then we will be taken to Honey Badger Lodge to meet Peter and Lucy Renju - Joey's parents.
Next entry will be from Tanzania !!!!!
The wedding dress is packed as hand luggage - so thats OK, but the rest just doesn't seem to fit into the bags we had hoped to use - so - lets try again!!! We've sent some books off by mail, in the hope that they arrive sometime when we are there which has helped a bit (not much tho).
Either way, we WILL be packed and ready for the off tomorrow. The plan is that we fly to Dar and arrive there early Friday morning. Hopefully we will be met by a driver who is taking us to a hotel where we can relax before our next flight which is later in the day. We should arrive at Moshi to be met by Jenny and Joey late afternoon and then we will be taken to Honey Badger Lodge to meet Peter and Lucy Renju - Joey's parents.
Next entry will be from Tanzania !!!!!
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