Saturday, 10 May 2008

Back in the UK

Arrived back last night, and it felt most strange walking into our home - and then had to do Tesco's today - what a culture shock that was.

Anyway spent the day looking through photo's and trying to get some of them on the blog, and now its back to some sort of normal UK life, which will be great.

As I know you all know by now, I have had a fabulous three months - really wonderful. I cried when I left Tanzania - but I know that I will go back, and will look forward to that.

So this is the last entry - honest. Photo's will be winging their way around the world v soon, but hopefully the taster I have put on here will satisfy till then.

Thanks and Kwa heri
XXXXX

Tuesday, 29 April 2008

Sorry no more photo's

So sorry but the photo's were taking f o r e v e r to put on - you will all just have to wait to see me.
Lots of love J

The wedding !!!!

29th April, 2008

This is now being written at the Serena Hotel in Zanzibar (A fabulous place to stay if you ever get the chance!) All the wedding guests have left, the flowers have been dispersed and the bride and groom, today, are on their way to Botswana for their horse riding honeymoon. Its over, its done - it was aa amazing and wonderful time and hopefully I can tell you something about it, and maybe even include a few photos.

The celebrations started on the Saturday when family and friends started to arrive from all over the world (France, UK, Barbados, Canada, Ireland, plus some 7 other countries!). Many had arrived and gone straight off for a safari prior to the event.

On the Tuesday, I was invited to the womens meeting at Honey Badger (we had by this time moved to a hotel which was next to the venue for the wedding). I dragged Brenda along with me (unfortunately my sister – Hilary – was not yet back from Safari) and they showed us what would be happening at the function on the Saturday. Basically the women from my clan should have gathered and brought together all the things which Jenny would need in her married life – these things are then put in a basket and I then present the basket to Jen, with a ‘few chosen words of wisdom’. However, as my clan was somewhat small (and ignorant of this tradition) the local women gathered together the implements needed. They included locally made wooden utensils, spoons, ladles, a wooden swivel stick which is used to stir the meali porridge or ugali. Wooden bowls and trays and mugs made out of coconuts were also included, as well as THE banana leaf mat – which is used as a birthing mat (no pressure there then Jen!) Also presented was a gas lamp. All these things were put into the basket and there was lots of ululating and singing went with it. I was also advised that my ‘words of wisdom’ should include something along the lines of ‘if your husband sleeps with his head facing north, then you must sleep with your head facing north – etc etc’. We were then invited by the women to go across to the bar for a drink, and there was more singing, ululating and laughter – it was amazing.

Meanwhile the young of the group, had all gone off for a night in the town, boys separated from the girls to eat but they all joined up later I think.

Wednesday, was the day of the legal wedding (equivalent to the Registrars Office) parents and siblings only. We walked over to the venue for the wedding to meet up with Jen and Joey at 9ish. They wanted to check that all was going OK. It wasn’t! The table man had promised 14 round tables, he only had 5, the musicians (The Tanzanites from Dar) had decided not to come today but would come Thurs am!! Luckily Monica (Joey’s cousin) then arrived. She is well known in Tz, and she is an event organizer. She had been brought in to organize the Saturday wedding, and to do the flowers for Thursday – so she took over, and J & J left it all in her very capable (and big!) hands.

We then went along to the registrars office – for those who read the blog about the Hindi wedding – it was in the same place. Old colonial building with a filing system which is still in the dark ages. However, all arrived (and on time!!) except Mama Lucy!!!! Don’t know why she didn’t come, something about being too busy.

The service was lovely – the District Commission did it, and she firstly asked them whether they wanted a monogamous, polygamous, or defer the decision till later, marriage. Then she proceeded to talk about how this marriage ceremony is a legal one and only can be broken by death or divorce, and went into great detail about how to get a divorce! Next came the advice, Do Not Kill Each Other – that is bad! Do not send friends to spy on each other, that also is bad. Etc etc. It was a lovely service tho. Sam, Joey’s brother, and I were witnesses and I forgot to take a hanky!!!!! Luckily there were a few available for me to use. Loads of photo’s taken.

We all then went back to Honey Badger for lunch, picking up friends and family on the way. At three, the girls of the wedding party – left to go back to our hotel to be pampered. We then lazed around the pool, and chilled. At 7pm we had planned to have a BBQ at the hotel for all our guests and friends, and it was a lovely evening. However, it did start to rain at 10 ish – and didn’t stop!!

Our room at the hotel was a wonderfully large and spacious one. The hotel only had 11 rooms and used to be a private house. We had the guest room which opened out onto the pool area/garden as well. Loads of space and mirrors, but not much light (fixed that my asking the manager to put some bulbs in!!!)

We are now Thursday morning – wedding day – and it hadn’t stopped raining since 10 pm last night. It was pouring down – good African rain. But undaunted, Donald got dressed relatively early and cleared out of the room, so that we girls could take it over. Hairdresser (eventually!!) came, but made such a mess of Jen’s hair that it had to be washed and done again (by Helen K), meanwhile the power went out, so there was an element of panic about use of hair dryers.

We had planned to leave at 12 – ceremony to start at 12.30. At 11 ish, Sam came over from the venue with the flowers and informed us “don’t hurry, there is a slight delay – wait for the call” So we opened another bottle and tried to keep Jen cool and calm – it had started to stop raining. All guests were gathered at the venue, but it seems that (a) the room decorations were not yet finished and (b) Mama Lucy had not appeared yet!!!!

We eventually get the go ahead and get the dress on and shoes on and head for the cars. Seemly we arrived just after Lucy – who I understand had a fanfare from the Ngombe group (the local Chagga musicians who were supposed to play to guests whilst the photo’s were being taken).

The hotel looked lovely, there was an aisle strewn with red rose petals and I walked down it on my own saying hi to all as I went – there were quite a few empty seats, but think we expected that people would just drip in when they would.

When I got to my place, on the front row, I looked at Lucy and said hi and gave her a kiss and noticed that Peter (Joey’s Dad) wasn’t there. He had been ill and had had to go to hospital on the Tuesday, and Lucy said that he wasn’t well again. So sorry that he missed the ceremony – but – he appeared at the venue just after the ceremony and looked pretty fit to me. Not sure if this was either his way of not being at the ceremony which was not a Catholic one, whether he had been called away by ‘the government’ to do some work, or the other scenario we heard was that Lucy sent him on an important errant. Either way, obviously they did not consider this part of the celebrations too important. But lets carry on ..

Then down the aisle I see the bridesmaids and then Jen & Donald. I sobbed … (so did Donald) It was a really beautiful ceremony. The DC gave an abridged version of her other talk, and there were a few readings, and Jen and Joey exchanged vows. They also managed to get Joey to break the glass (a la Jewish tradition) which was lovely. They then walked up the aisle husband and wife!

We then did the usual photos etc and had the wedding breakfast, speeches and dancing. The rain DID stop just as we arrived at the venue, and for the photos too – so that was just fabulous. The band were amazing, and everyone (including Lucy and Peter) were dancing at some stage of the night – there was a lovely atmosphere and it was just a fabulous party, both Jen & Joey obviously really enjoyed it too. Lucy and Peter really enjoyed it too, and I think were quite surprised at how the day had turned out.

Friday, Jen and Joey had arranged for their guests to visit a local beauty spot, waterfalls, and so coaches were laid on and packed lunches, and most people went along to that. Donald and I agreed that we would chill out at the hotel, and ended up joining up with J & J, Tam and Leila (the worlds best bridesmaids – who seemed to be going to live with J&J as they went on honeymoon with them too – well the first stage of the honeymoon anyway!). We caught up on the gossip and photo’s and had a lovely day.
We all split up for the evening, and we had a family meal at a local Chinese restaurant just down the road from us – we were 18, as Mark’s (my brothers) party was 8)

Just as we got back to the hotel in the evening (Friday 10 pm) , I had a text from Jen to inform me that they may be having to change the Saturday venue!!!!

Saturday morning we heard that the venue was not to be changed – it seems that there was some concern that the access to the hotel may not be passable – it was, so back to plan A.

At 10 am we loaded onto the bus and headed up the mountain, well up towards THE mountain – Kilimanjaro (which had not been seen for days because of the rain!) The access road was slippy and we had a few scares on the drive up to it, but all seemed to be going ahead with the preparations there. The do was supposed to start at 3.30, but we were having bets about whether it would be even on the go by 5, as we were all quite used to African time now. Flowers were being done, tables laid and tents were up.

We kicked Donald out again (poor chap) and dressed Jen in our room (rondella’s). This was the gold day, and I have to say she looked just amazing. We were taking it quite easy, having a drink and taking photo’s, when Donald came down at 3.30 to say that ‘you won’t believe it but everyone is seated!!!’

The rain had stopped about 2 hours previously! We walked Jen up to Joey and left them to make an entrance. This time I walked down the gold/yellow rose petal strewn aisle with Donald, and we were greeted with lots of ululating again. Then game the bride and groom ……

This was the Chagga party, and so there was lots of ululating, clapping and dancing. The goat cake (oh forgot to mention that there was one of them at the Thursday do too) was duly cut and then the traditional one was cut too – the bride and groom were each fed some, and they then fed some to their new respective in laws.

The basket ceremony took place, lots more ululating and clapping and singing and I then handed it to Jen with my few words of wisdom (I didn’t follow the script! – there’s a surprise!) I was also presented with a blanket, to keep me warm now that my daughter had left me!!

More wonderful food and lots of dancing. Then there was a surprise ceremony which I had not been warned about. The presenting of the Kanga’s – (the lengths of material which most women’s clothing is traditionally made from) (plus, according to Joanna Lumley, the most useful item in the world and the one thing she wanted to take with her on her dessert Island (discs) as it can be used for some many things)

I was led to a chair (and dragged Hil and Brenda with me) and we were sat down – on came the women with their ululating and singing, and each wrapped a kanga around us. There were loads possibly 20+, so it was getting a bit hot under them. They then danced around us singing and clapping – Daniel said that we looked like the three witches!!!

It all finished pretty early as most of the guests were from local villages and had to be bussed back, but it was another wonderful party.

And now it is over. Said farewell to guests as they drifted away on Sunday, cried buckets when Jen & Joey left (with Tam and Leila). They are spending a couple of days in Dar prior to flying to Botswana, and we are now in Zanzibar. Ad and Helen are in The Maldives for their belated honeymoon, and Dan and Vicky got back to Liverpool to discover a leak in their house and are now back to work.

Where does the time go! – the memories are wonderful, of Mwanza, game parks, parties, work, dala dalla’s and the wedding – and hopefully the photo’s will be good too. Donald is desperately hoping that this 10 day break we are having in luxury in Zanzibar will prepare me to go back home – I’m not so sure. I have loved being here and of course the wedding has been fantastic, we will see. But I am coming back - honest

So this will be my last blog (probably!) Thank you for reading it, for your patience and I will try not to bore you all too much on my return.

See you in the UK
Lots of love J

Tuesday, 22 April 2008

Family and guests gathering

Moshi 22nd April

Donald and I are now ‘embedded’ at the Impala Hotel, which is just around the corner from where the wedding will take place. We moved in here on Sunday, just as Jens friends started to arrive at Honey Badger. (Some with luggage, some without!!!)

Family is gathering too – Hil and Peter (my sister) have been on safari for a couple of days, and we understand all is good there, they have seen lots, and, their luggage is now at the hotel awaiting their arrival – phew!!!

My brother and his lot also arrived in Moshi having spent a week in Zanzibar and they too have gone for a couple of days safari.

Both boys – Adam with Helen and Daniel with Vicky, touched down in Tz on Saturday, and are now having a bit of time to themselves at different locations, but all start to gather at The Impala or Honey Badger tonight.

Hil & Peter and Brenda and Ian will be with us tonight at The Impala – and us girls have been invited to Honey Badger tonight for a ‘kitchen evening’ – Lucy explained about it and it seems that the women of the clan gather to put stuff in a basket to prepare Jen for married life. I understand that there should be pots and pans etc. but not sure how symbolic it all is. I thought Jen should have been there too, but she and her girlfriends are out for a meal tonight, and Joey is with the guys. So I will have to represent her.

Another tradition (which I believe will be done on the Saturday – or maybe tonight – I don’t really know) is that the grooms clan present the brides mother with blankets and kanga’s – this is to keep her warm when she has handed her daughter over to another family. The theory being that the girl sleeps with her mother and so when she moves families the mothers bed will be cold!

Anyway I will be able to report what actually happens in a later blog. Lucy has told me the above and well we will see what actually happens.

The hotel we are at is one of the best in Moshi – but it is Africa and low season. The room we have is lovely – the hotel was once a private house and there are only 11 rooms here. We have what was the guest suite and it opens out onto the garden/pool area – its lovely, big and roomy. However it seems to be a very dark room – and on looking we noticed that most of the light bulbs don’t work.

Well this is the room which we will be using to dress the bride (did I tell you that the dresses are all here!!!! They arrived just as the heavens opened and it poured – just another hurdle overcome. Sure I did, but you can understand the satisfaction if you have followed the saga) – and I think we need light etc, so asked at the desk if they could replace the light bulbs. Well, says the manager, it is low season! Yes – and what does that mean – well we have problems with the lights in that room because the ceiling is very high – Yes – but …… A few other excuses were listed and I thought we were doomed to be dressing the bride in a dark room – but – later in the afternoon, the manager and his man, came along to ask for the key. They then clambered on top of wardrobes and stood, legs spread over two wardrobes, and managed to change one light, and adjust a few others, so progress.

The low season thing is quite interesting – they asked if we could pay for as much as possible with cash, because it is low season, and they need to use the cash to buy the stuff we need – food, drink etc. Tanzania is really a cash country – very few places take plastic (which is good as I suppose it means that debts don’t build up) and travellers cheques are just a no-no, but think that they dying elsewhere too. However, it does mean that you have to visit the ATM quite regularly – and as the biggest note is 10,000 – you can imagine the wedge of notes you have to carry around with you.

Yesterday we walked into town from here – about 30/40 minutes. Donald was really pleased to be ‘on the road again’, think he has missed walking. We followed a group of women who had huge trays of banana’s on their heads. They obviously pick them up from higher up our road and then walk them into town to sell. The trays were about 4ft by 2ft and fully loaded – we figure they must weigh 20kg+. Luckily the walk was downhill but some these women were obviously finding it difficult and kept shifting the load. On the way down we met some of them coming back up with empty trays, probably to reload and start again. If they were lucky they managed to sell some on the way, and so lighten the load. Its tough out here for some – possibly most!

We haven’t seen Kilimanjaro for a couple of days, the cloud is too low, and it has been quite wet and rainy – we are just crossing fingers for a dry days on Thursday and Saturday. When it does rain, it pours, but not for long, so hopefully we should be OK.

So the plan now is that today, Tuesday, we have the kitchen gathering for the girls (Myself, Hil and Brenda) and we will then join our guys later – hopefully it isn’t a whole evening thing.

Wednesday, Jen, Joey, Donald and I are going to the hotel where the wedding is to meet up with the band (The Tanzanites – who are coming in from Dar to perform, and who are apparently very well known) and also with the wedding planner, Monica. Monica is a family member who does this sort of thing for a living, and she is in charge of ‘dressing’ the room, doing the flowers and bouquets etc.

We then head to the District Commissioners office to do the legal wedding, this will be with immediate family only, ie parents and siblings. After that is completed, we will all, friends too, gather at Honey Badger for lunch.

At 3pm, Jen and her party will leave HB and come to The Impala where she has arranged for a couple of beauty therapists to come to pamper us. We are hosting the evening and hope to have a BBQ and salad for all our guests (assuming that the hotel has managed to get the stuff together, because it is low season!) and then Thursday it is The Wedding day.

Donald will be kicked out of our room, and the girls will come in – so exciting!

I will write again soon – but not sure when, as think I may be a bit pre occupied – I’m sure you understand.

Lots of love J

Saturday, 19 April 2008

Safari and wedding celebrations start

19th April,

We are now in Moshi (Its Saturday 18th) and fully into wedding preparations. The table plan has been a nightmare, but seems it is now done, and hopefully it will work.

Last night Hilary & Peter (my sister and her husband) came to Honey Badger for a meal and it was lovely to see her and to catch up with everything. Unfortunately when they arrived in Tz their luggage didn’t and so they have had to get what they can from wherever – and this included Sagar & Ruth (Joey’s best man and his wife) sorting through their clothes and a trip into Moshi to buy some things. I believe Hil has had an outfit made for her, and understand that there is quite a story around the purchase. Anyway, they are now off on safari for a couple of days and return to Moshi on Tuesday, when hopefully their luggage will be waiting.

In the meantime, Donald and I have had a wonderful few days on safari ourselves. We hired a car (no driver) and we two set off for Ngorongoro Crater Lodge where we met up with Brenda and Ian (friends from home who are coming to the wedding). The Lodge we stayed at there was amazing, every detail thought of, we had our own butler, the bath was run for us and full of hot soapy water with rose petals around the bath and candles lit – forget the rose petals and candles – HOT SOAPY WATER and A BATH!!!! What bliss! There was a fire lit for us in the evening, and it was an absolutely fabulous lodge to stay in – if anyone of you ever gets the chance then go and visit it, really worth a stay. There were buffalo roaming around the grounds, and you have to be escorted by an askari once it is dark – I actually wouldn’t have minded being escorted during the day light as those buffalo were bloody big! But think they were ‘relatively’ tame, or at least used to people walking around them. They often went under the lodges too – the rooms being in individual round lodges on stilts. They were not bothered about hitting the stilts, I was, as they did bang around (snort and fart a bit too) as well as being covered with flies – but I wasn’t going to argue with them.

Anyway we had a wonderful two days there with B & I. Donald and I went along to Oldupai Gorge – the place where the oldest known skeleton was found. Really interesting and a lovely drive to it from the lodge.

We parted with B&I and they went on to further luxury in tented camps and our accommodation seemed to go downhill from there – having said that it would have been difficult to improve on Crater Lodge. We had two nights at Lake Manyara and drove thro the park, which is lovely. Saw loads of game and wonderful birds – no cats unfortunately, but it is difficult seeing cats when the grass is high (and you have no guide who uses the radio to find out where they are!) Saw loads of elephants and giraffes, which is fabulous and spent time just watching them and taking photo’s of course. There is a wonderful feeling of space here in the parks – the sky seems to be endless and the views are just amazing.
We next went on to Tarangire Park, which is known for its elephants, and boy did we see them. Our room looked onto the park from a ridge (part of the Rift Valley) and we were elephant spotting from there. Also felt a small earth quake – which often happens in the Rift Valley apparently – just the plates moving a bit. Brilliant.

Unfortunately we were bitten to hell there – loads of flies in part of the park, so itching like mad at the moment and taking anti histamine, so a small price to pay – just hope that the bites disappear by the wedding day!

So now we are back in Moshi and getting into wedding mode. The travellers are homing in, just heard that Ad and Helen are in Dubai awaiting a transfer and also just had a text from Dan and Vicky who are in Amsterdam. Hil and Peter, as I said are off on Safari and Mark and Tina and their crew have been in Zanzibar for a bit and are coming to Moshi today and then they are going off on Safari for a few days too.

So that’s a quick catch up
Love to all
J

Thursday, 10 April 2008

Leaving Mwanza

11th April, 2008

Dresses done!!!! And gosh are they something !!!! Packed and ready – going hand luggage (despite what the airline think!)

And so we are all packed up and ready to go! We seem to have more stuff than we came with, which surely must be impossible.

Jen and Joey are coming to collect us soon, and will take us to the airport – we fly to Moshi today and will stay at Honey Badger lodge tonight with Lucy and Peter.

Tomorrow, we go to Ngororo Crater where we join up with some friends (Brenda and Ian) for a couple of nights. Then we have a couple of nights in each of two other game parks. We are self driving, so that should be fun.

When we return to Moshi we will be in full wedding mode, and I will try to add to the blog then. In the meantime, hope to see elephants and other game, but looking forward to being on the move I think.

Lots of love

J

Tuesday, 8 April 2008

Dress Making!

9th April, 2008


Well not much to report really – we are winding down here in Mwanza. Jen and I seem to be spending more time with Famida (dress maker) than anything else. Jen’s Saturday dress is now almost finished – and gosh what a dress. This is the one that Famida has made from scratch – well from photo’s of other dresses Jen tried on in the UK. The fabric, and I can tell you that it is gold, was sent to India to be hand embroidered, and it has now been put together by Famida’s fundi, who is really very good. He is Indian, doesn’t speak Swahili and very little English. There is a lot of head wobbling when he and Famida talk (heavily discuss!!), but he has really done an amazing job on this dress.

The other dress, for Thursday (the one I brought out with me) is now being altered to fit – and mine – well mine caused a bit of a discussion yesterday when we went along. I hope that today it will be ‘try-on-able’ if not finished. We will see at five ish tonight. We leave on Friday, and it is now Wednesday!

Meanwhile, I am collecting another two outfits I have had made by a Tanzanian charity group called Binti Maringo (which stands for fair working conditions). This is the place which has just opened a restaurant near where my placement was. They also have a dress making service and a furniture making service and all profits go to support the unit they have for street kids. Anyway, these are two African type outfits – so exciting.

Think I will go up to Samaritans with Donald today to see the finished results – sounds that quite a lot has gone on there at last, and it will be good to see it. Believe that Joey will be taking the final filming today as well.

And so need to start thinking of packing up – ohhhhh - I could really stay longer, but know Donald is ready to move on, and we have safari and wedding and then holiday to go before returning home.

Lots of love
J